Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: J. Achey, K. Bein, B. Devine, L. Coyne, 1980
Page Views: 5,332 total · 25/month
Shared By: Mark Tarrant on Apr 11, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This classic and beautiful Rincon Wall route is one of the most memorable climbs in Eldorado. Right of Climb of the Century is a smooth, chalk-stained, hanging slab with overhangs both above and below. It gradually tapers up to a sharp arete and a steep dihedral. Begin in a short corner and then creep out right onto the face, past all the chalk (crux), using sharp flakes and complex footwork. Edge up the face, eventually touching the arete and then liebacking up the corner (good med. cam). Moving past the overhanging section is difficult (.11c), followed by an .11a move (wires) in the dihedral before the anchor. Most climbers usually lower off at this point, but a nice second pitch (.10d) moves out right and then up a crack and bulge to another anchor. Rap here (150') or climb up to the walk-off ledge (.8).

The fixed pins on Wendego are quite old and are probably not capable of holding a lot of weight. Some of the pins can be backed up with RPs or mini cams, but these aren't bombproof either. Disputes have arisen about placing bolts on Wendego (no!), but it would be better to replace the old pins with new ones. It would be a good way to find out just how bad the old ones are and how they've aged over the past 25+ years. The Park might approve gear-for-gear applications (no FHRC required). If these pins are as bad as people think, then there should be very little scarring when they are removed, and new and better pins could take their place. Maybe the slots left from the old pins would leave bomber cam placements?!

Even as is, Wendego is superb. With some careful upgrading more climbers might be willing to get on it. The elaborate moves, vintage gear, and overall challenge add up to an exemplary Eldorado experience.

Protection

3 old fixed pins, RPs, wires, mini cams, and Friends to 2". 2 bolt anchor.

Photos