Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Duncan Ferguson and Chris Revely,1974
Page Views: 10,596 total · 48/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Apr 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This starts just between Over the Hill and Emerald City...up dihedral for a stem fest to a fun traverse left and up the steep face to a cool pair of cracks in a steep 25' wall to a large belay ledge (be careful of loose rocks). Continue on with the 2nd pitch finger crack of Over the Hill (5.9) or rap 100' from tree and down climb a little to the ground (60 meter rope) or continue up the somewhat tricky 2nd pitch in the obvious dihedral.


Standard rack...tree anchor or gear under awesome finger crack (2nd pitch of Over the Hill) for a recommended finish.
In addition to the options mentioned, you can also go over the roof and climb the dihedral to the left of the last pitch of Over the Hill. Maybe one or two 9-ish moves. Jan 1, 2001
You could also climb the 5.6 second pitch (as described in the guidebooks). As I recall: follow the parallel cracks (actually corner with a parallel crack to the right) to the rotten ledge at the base of the 3rd pitch of Over the Hill. From there, either traverse off left, or climb the 3rd pitch of OtH. Aug 12, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Smells quite strongly of nitrogen-type compounds at the start of the last pitch. Beware. Apr 30, 2003
This is a really good route. The gear is all there and it is very interesting. We climbed the dihedral to the left of the last pitch of Over the Hill. I thought there were some moves on that pitch that were a little harder than 5.8 (especially the first pitch). But the gear is good at these points, so it's not that much of a problem. The upper dihedral pitch is great pitch... varied moves and I thought they were decently thought-provoking. Also the double cracks at the top of the first pitch are pretty fun. Granted, they're short... but they're good.

I would definitely do this climb again. May 8, 2003
Bryan Lechner
Denver, CO
Bryan Lechner   Denver, CO
The Over and Out - Over the Hill link-up is one of the best 2 pitch outings I've done! I highly recommend it!! Pitch 1 has great stemming down low, a neat mini-traverse left under a roof and then 15 ft of super-positive laybacking to the belay. Pitch 2 looks harder than 5.9 from the belay but finger-locks and jugs seem to present themselves just at the right time. The best 9 pitch i've done in Eldo. You'll see what i mean when you get up there.... Jun 3, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Instead of moving left at the top of the initial dihedral, you can climb directly over the roof. It's not hard (5.7? Easier?), and has gear, but the big flake that forms the roof is a little suspect. Just above is a 1 1/4" angle, so it's an old variation. Jun 4, 2003
shad O'Neel  
Combined with the 5.9 finger crack this is one of the best moderates ever! Sucks up small nuts like a baby squirrel! Jun 12, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
Led this today and it rocks! Enjoyed every move. My new favorite (8) in the park. Go left at the end of the initial dihedral and climb the beautiful 20' crack next to the upper dihedral. Really fun moderate climbing. Definitely recommend linking P1 & 2. Use a long runner under the roof to eliminate rope drag. The weather forced us to miss the upper pitch, but plan on going back for the full experience real soon. Jun 19, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
Check that...my new favorite (8) Pitch. Jun 19, 2003
What a great route!!! The first pitch is just fun moves with great gear. The hand traverse is pretty wild and then feast your eyes on the sweet 20-foot hand crack. Jam that or run the finger crack in the corner. Take your pick. For the second pitch, I've done both the 5.8 dihedral and the 5.9 finger crack up the face. Both are good but the 5.9 is amazing. Rossiter's book calls it one of the best 5.9s anywhere; I'd agree. The thing eats mid-size nuts and Aliens. The 5.8 is super fun too, though I recall a couple of moves that felt a bit harder. Enjoy! Aug 5, 2003
Brian Weinstein  
As most have already stated...the final pitch of Over the Hill is not to be missed. Feb 23, 2004
If you do the upper pitch of Over the Hill or the dihedral to the left, there is a very quick descent to the north along the ledge system. Go about 150 feet N, when the ledge begins to go back upwards, look for an easy downclimb (4th class); 1 or 2 moves gets you to safe ground. I think the whole descent took about 5 minutes, the quickest I've ever had in Eldo. The finger crack is awesome with good stances before the cruxes; exciting moves. Sep 13, 2004
Climbed this on 10/17. The pro is excellent and the climbing was straightforward. Was definitely worth the "long" approach, at least according to Eldo standards. Oct 22, 2004
The dihedral left of P2 of OtH is a stellar pitch. I get the feeling it's underrated because of its proximity to the OtH finger crack. If leading Eldo 5.9s is a bit beyong you (as for me), then be sure to continue on up this pitch. It is either blemished or enhanced by a slightly spooky bit near the end above a small roof, where the crack become more of a seam. Almost the entire route is good fun climbing on really solid rock with great views. Nov 8, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I didn't think the climbing was entirely straightforward. Which of the cracks do you follow about 40' up, for example? Also, there is a balancy lieback move about 15' up. But a great climb nonetheless!

Our 60m rope easily made it from the tree, no downclimbing. Aug 30, 2006
Brenda Leach
Ridgway, CO
Brenda Leach   Ridgway, CO
The 2nd pitch finger crack of Over the Hill (5.9) is a great way to finish Over and Out. I used a mostly small RPs with a few Aliens to protect it. Quite a nice pitch. Sep 28, 2006
John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
John Korfmacher   Fort Collins, CO
IMHO one of the best moderates in Eldo. Two caveats:

  • The first good gear is about 15-20 feet up, but it's not hard to get there. The rest of the placements on this route are bomber and have good stances. Fun, smooth climbing all the way to the belay.
  • The belay at the top of the 5.6 corner is very chossy. There is currently a large pile of jagged debris at the exit of the corner. You can set a very nice gear anchor in the cracks below the big slab above, but use the slings on the tree instead. Although there's a bit more drag this way, you will avoid knocking the choss off with the rope. A note to the committee folks--bringing some of the rubble down might be a worthy off-season project.

You'll regret it if you don't do the 5.9 crack pitch above (P2 of Over the Hill). Sustained with very good pro, some thought-provoking frictiony moves, and holds that appear as if by magic, at just the right time and place. One of the coolest 5.9s anywhere. Nov 13, 2006
Adam Berger
Adam Berger  
My 60m rope did not reach the ground from the tree and we had to down climb. Luckily a friend was there to give us hand. Thanks, Chris. May 26, 2009
Bear Creek, CO
percious   Bear Creek, CO
At the top of the second pitch (of Over the Hill) The belay tree has died and no longer wears the mark of countless rappel slings. You may downclimb easily (climber's left) To another rappel tree, or continue right on down. There is one 5.1 exposed move on the downclimb. May 27, 2009
Rodger Raubach
Rodger Raubach  
A varied climb, but quite a bit of liebacking. A comparison: harder than the first pitch of Redguard, the "Birdwalk." Mar 16, 2011
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
Great Eldo 5.8. The first pitch is pretty straightforward with good gear. Pitch 2 is not to be missed, I'd still give it a 5.8, but the gear is a little trickier. Jul 10, 2011
Lyons, CO
Dankasaurus   Lyons, CO
The downclimb: if you end up belaying while standing on choss, you don't do the 2nd pitch for whatever reason, and perhaps the wall is festooned with many parties including a party on the OTH bolts, then there is a terrible choss traverse and downclimb waiting for you.

The terrible part is more about knocking rocks off than it is technical difficulty, but the technical downclimb moves are very exposed, and the poor trees are all dead. Please be careful of others down below, and be careful for yourself too.

The downclimb from P1 is to be avoided. Finish this climb or OTH. Jun 14, 2016
Joe Trabucco
Boulder, co
Joe Trabucco   Boulder, co
Got a green Metolius UL Master Cam 6 with 'jt' on inside of sling stuck just before end of the first pitch. 4102001866 thanks. Mar 4, 2017
D. Scott Clark
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
Fun climb with great protection, interesting and makes you think. Try not to get your rope stuck on Over the Hill P1 if you rap from the rings after P1. Mar 26, 2017