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Routes in Rincon - L of Center Route

Aerial Bondage T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Aerial Book T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Aero-Book T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Aerohead T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aeronaut T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Aerospace T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arete Bandit T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Athletic Supporter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bachar Yer Aryan T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bat's Ass Dihedral T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brevitata T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb Of The Century T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cuban Bluegrass T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Emerald City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Evictor, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Faulty Logic T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Final Eviction (aka Freeline), The T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Fraid Line T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Kaisho T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Kangaroo Tail T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Leisure Time Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Must'a Been High T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
N.I.C T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Over and Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hill T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scenic Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Surf's Up T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Trident T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ventura Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wendego T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Windy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 80 ft Fixed Hardware (7)
FA: Clint and DeMaille
Page Views: 2,181 total, 12/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jul 5, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Bolt protected thin slabbing featuring micro-crimping. This pitch is essentially a connector between pitch three of Over the Hill and Aeronaut. A more in character way to get to the start would be via Aerial Book.

Start as for Over The Hill P3. Cut right to reach a pin about 15' up. From the pin follow bolts which traverse right to the Aeronaut arete. The crux is after the fourth bolt, at a section of rock that appears completely devoid of handholds until you launch into it. Clipping the post crux bolt is pretty tough -- if you've got the stomach for it, it's probably easier to go another move past the intended clip hold before clipping. After this clip, the arete is reached, at which point footholds reappear and you can catch your breath. The next bolt is on the right side of the arete. Clip it and climb up a move until you can see a bolt to the left of the arete, at the same height as, and two feet to the side of, the bolt you just clipped. Move your runner to the left bolt to allow the rope to run better, then continue up the arete to the walkoff ledge, with most moves being easier than they first appear.

This pitch felt like sustained 5.10 except for the crux which felt like hard 11, especially if you're not dialed into thin this style of climbing. The scarce, binary nature of the holds on this pitch might make it easier for those with long reaches.

Protection

Two or three small to medium nuts for the first 15'. These are followed by a pin and about 8 bolts. A couple of long slings are handy.

Photos

E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
This has got to be one of the better parody route names I've seen. I truly want to climb it just so I can drop the name and laugh... Feb 18, 2011
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
  5.11d
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
  5.11d
I climbed this awhile ago as an alternate to P3 of Over the Hill (which by the way is one of my favorite .9's in the canyon). I thought this was a great route that amde you commit to get to the holds you needed . It looks blank and hard from the ground but once you get into micro-crimps seem to appear just as you need them. Clipping from the arete was quite spicy. Jun 13, 2004