| Type: |
Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
Fixed Hardware
(7) |
| GPS: | 39.93435, -105.28993 |
| FA: | Clint and DeMaille |
| Page Views: | 3,560 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on Jul 5, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This has bolt protected, thin slabbing featuring micro-crimping. This pitch is essentially a connector between pitch three of Over the Hill and Aeronaut. A more in character way to get to the start would be via Aerial Book.
Start as for Over The Hill's P3. Cut right to reach a pin about 15' up. From the pin, follow bolts which traverse right to the Aeronaut arete. The crux is after the fourth bolt, at a section of rock that appears completely devoid of handholds until you launch into it. Clipping the post crux bolt is pretty tough -- if you've got the stomach for it, it's probably easier to go another move past the intended clip hold before clipping. After this clip, the arete is reached, at which point footholds reappear and you can catch your breath. The next bolt is on the right side of the arete. Clip it, and climb up a move until you can see a bolt to the left of the arete, at the same height as, and two feet to the side of, the bolt you just clipped. Move your runner to the left bolt to allow the rope to run better, then continue up the arete to the walkoff ledge, with most moves being easier than they first appear.
This pitch felt like sustained 5.10 except for the crux which felt like hard 11, especially if you're not dialed into thin this style of climbing. The scarce, binary nature of the holds on this pitch might make it easier for those with long reaches.



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