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Routes in Rincon - L of Center Route
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Aerial Bondage T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Aerial Book T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Aero-Book T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Aerohead T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Aeronaut T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Aerospace T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Arete Bandit T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Athletic Supporter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bachar Yer Aryan T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bat's Ass Dihedral T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Brevitata T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Climb Of The Century T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cuban Bluegrass T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Emerald City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Evictor, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Faulty Logic T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Final Eviction (aka Freeline), The T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Fraid Line T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Freak Line T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Kaisho T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Kangaroo Tail T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Leisure Time Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Must'a Been High T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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N.I.C T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Over and Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Over the Hill T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rincon Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Scenic Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Surf's Up T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Trident T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ventura Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wendego T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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Windy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.93435, -105.28993 |
| FA: | Reveley & Davis, 1974 |
| Page Views: | 1,643 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on Jul 27, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This "lonely" route has three high quality pitches, all with steep crack cruxes. Receiving little to no traffic, it is relatively adventurous, with some lose rock, lichen, bushes and no chalk to guide the way.
Start on the right side of the 15' wide ledge at the base of the right side of the Windy pillar.
P1. (5.10-, 100'). Ascend a shallow, "funky", left-facing corner past raspberry bushes to a handcrack through a roof; the handcrack is plainly visible from the ground. We entered the corner by traversing right 5' from the right side of the above-mentioned ledge. Per Tony B: solid #0.75 and #0.3 BD Camalots are available in this solid crack once you arrive here and give great first protection. You can climb 130 feet from there and through the roof above (#0.75 and #1 Camalots) to a belay above the roof, to a ledge a "gully" 30 to 40 feet below an ominous looking, hanging block.
P2 (5.10, 120'). The book version of this route continues up the gully and under the hanging block. The variation we did avoids passage under the block, adds some difficulty and quality, and is described here. Per Tony B: it also happens to be the "better yet" recommended variation suggested as superior in the latest edition of the Levin guidebook to Eldorado Canyon. To the right side of the belay gully is a v-slot capped by a steep wall with a hand size crack system in it. Climb this crack system via jamming and laybacking and move back left into the regular route, passing a large tree on its left, above the hanging block. Continue upwards easily until immediately below The Trident, an overhanging block split by three cracks which resembles Neptune's hand tool. When viewed from the middle of the talus on the approach to Rincon, The Trident is a quite prominent.
P3 (5.10a-d?, 30'). Climb one of the cracks. The left one, looks the easiest, per Tony B: is rated 10a, but it involves a lng and powerful reach between jams using feet on some less than perfect rock. The right one (rated 10b per Tony B) seems to belong to the route "Variation V" while the center crack was to us the most compelling (rated 10d per Tony B). The center crack was somewhat reminiscent of Art's Spar, Vertigo, or Whiplash and though a one-move-wonder, was the crux of the route and felt to me like 11a. (Note: I'm more comfortable on cracks than roofs and found P3 much harder than P1 or P2; my partner, with opposite strengths, found P2 and P3 about the same.)
Protection
A standard Eldo rack to 3.5".
Per Tony B: ... and if you like, a #4 can be placed along the way, though isn't necessary at all. Take doubles in at least #0.75 and #1 Camalots (1.75-2.5" cams). Long slings are a must-have to avoid rope drag.
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