Type: Trad, 4 pitches Fixed Hardware (3)
FA: Dave Dornan, Pete Lev, 1961. FFA: Pat Ament/Roger Briggs 196?
Page Views: 39,156 total · 138/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is one of the mega-classics in Eldo. Start on the same ledge as for the Yellow Spur, but down to the south.

P1. Climb the 5.9 or 5.6 variation up a right dihedral to a big belay ledge.

P2. Awkward and tough 5.9 moves past a bulge lead to easier rock above. Look for the bolted belay up and right of a slanted ledge before the obvious dihedral which is the crux of the route.

P3. The routes technical crux. 5.11b dihedral with some difficult stemming and interesting finger locks. It can be protected well with small cams and nuts. There is some great exposure on this one.

P4. The routes mental crux. 5.11a overhanging crack through a big ceiling. This is done with very solid jams and jugs, as well as great pro. Just plug the cams and go! If this pitch doesn't get you pumped by the amazing climbing and exposure, you should be a BASE jumper or fighter pilot. This is truly a wonderful and tough climb.

After topping out, downclimb to the west face of a big block, just north of the summit block, to locate a bolted rappel station.

Protection Suggest change

Bring a standard rack for Eldorado Canyon. The old pins that used to protect the dihedral crux are no longer there so bring some small Aliens and TCUs. Second and third pitches have bolted belays. Also, bring lots of hand-sized cams for the overhanging, crack pitch.