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Routes in Redgarden - Tower One

Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Art's Spar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Better Layton Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Consummation Nite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
E.L.100 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Aunt Jemima T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R
Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Magic Route T C2+
Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Parting Shot T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocky Raccoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Rover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Dave Dornan, Pete Lev, 1961. FFA: Pat Ament/Roger Briggs 196?
Page Views: 26,155 total, 127/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is one of the mega-classics in Eldo. Start on the same ledge as for the Yellow Spur, but down to the south.

P1. Climb the 5.9 or 5.6 variation up a right dihedral to a big belay ledge.

P2. Awkward and tough 5.9 moves past a bulge lead to easier rock above. Look for the bolted belay up and right of a slanted ledge before the obvious dihedral which is the crux of the route.

P3. The routes technical crux. 5.11b dihedral with some difficult stemming and interesting finger locks. It can be protected well with small cams and nuts. There is some great exposure on this one.

P4. The routes mental crux. 5.11a overhanging crack through a big ceiling. This is done with very solid jams and jugs, as well as great pro. Just plug the cams and go! If this pitch doesn't get you pumped by the amazing climbing and exposure, you should be a BASE jumper or fighter pilot. This is truly a wonderful and tough climb.

After topping out, downclimb to the west face of a big block, just north of the summit block, to locate a bolted rappel station.

Protection

Bring a standard rack for Eldorado Canyon. The old pins that used to protect the dihedral crux are no longer there so bring some small Aliens and TCUs. Second and third pitches have bolted belays. Also, bring lots of hand-sized cams for the overhanging, crack pitch.
Hi everyone! I forgot my camera in the Vertigo ledge on Saturday October 7. If you found it, I would really appreaciate to contact me. Thank you, Javier Oct 9, 2017
Eliot Augusto
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Eliot Augusto   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
3/18/17 - fixed pin still there. There is a fixed nut above the pin. There is also a fixed pin on the small ledge after leaving the belay on pitch 3.

Combine the fixed gear with a blue/purple TCU, and this crux sews up very nicely. A most amazing climb. We had the route to ourselves in Eldo on a Saturday. Mar 18, 2017
Amos Whiting
Basalt, Colorado
 
Amos Whiting   Basalt, Colorado
 
I was almost killed on this route by rock fall in ''99. It took me 17 years to return, only to find loose blocks on the last pitch leaving the ledge. Also, most importantly, the huge death flake in the roof is just that, a DEATH FLAKE. This route is toted as one of the safer 5.11s in the park. It is just a matter of time before someone pulls or kicks the giant flake off into their chest, cleaning out the scores of people below. Not recommended. Oct 3, 2016
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Two fixed nuts and a pin on the crux dihedral, slung block with mangy tat on the roof pitch. Will try to clean up that block next time I'm up there.

So much fun. Jun 30, 2016
Benjamin Pontecorvo
Seattle, WA
Benjamin Pontecorvo   Seattle, WA
On the second pitch, there is currently a purple c4 with a biner above the bulge, buried in a crack. It was about 35 degrees out, so I was trying not to get the barfies - I didn't try for long - but a good angler could get it out with two nut tools and a bit of effort. Quality route, so happy to have gotten on it! Jan 16, 2016
Very nice job, Gregger Man. Neptune Gear swap is coming up! Apr 5, 2015
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
Jake Ramsey
Yosemite, CA
Jake Ramsey   Yosemite, CA
Such a fun climb. I recommend linking pitches 1 and 2, watch the rope drag though. Also when pulling over the lip, make sure to keep the hand jam next to the jug free of gear, otherwise it makes it a lot harder for shorter people. Mar 27, 2015
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
 
Only 1 fixed nut now, and it's pretty good, though you can back it up if you wish. Pin below the nut looks good, too. Oct 20, 2014
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
 
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
 
There are currently two fixed nuts after the pin on the dihedral pitch. The upper nut will hold a fall! Sep 28, 2014
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
The piece placed out left is actually a 0.4.

Not sure where you could get in anything bigger, and this will make following the route more enjoyable for your second. Jun 16, 2014
Dr. VARMENT
Boulder, Colorado
 
Dr. VARMENT   Boulder, Colorado
 
The roof pitch is cake, as for the dihedral.... Aug 28, 2013
Moritz B.  
 
Today it was way too windy on the fifth pitch for us. It was way too cold to be enjoyable. We bailed off the fourth pitch and left a nineteen g carabiner on the pin in the crux. Whoever gets it, have fun with it :-) May 5, 2013
Dane Casterson
Boulder
 
Dane Casterson   Boulder
 
As I remember it, a #0.75 Camalot can be placed out left after turning the roof on p4. This piece holds the rope out of the crack nicely. Feb 25, 2012
Brett Brotherton
Arvada, CO
Brett Brotherton   Arvada, CO
The webbing in the roof looked like it was around a fixed stopper (just the stopper no wire). That being said I decided to plug a cam next to it, since there was bomber gear to be found everywhere on the roof. Sep 10, 2011
jmeizis
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11b
jmeizis   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11b
This is a great climb. Almost onsighted the dihedral but fell trying to reach for what would have been basically a bomber jug. Cruised the second time. There is one pin in the dihedral which can be backed up with yellow and blue TCUs. Flailed on the roof pitch because of rope issues. Don't place gear at the lip or if you do, remove it after you get past it because your rope will trap it and your second will make .11a look like .12a, especially if it's snowing.... Apr 20, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
No fixed gear in the crux dihedral except the pin as of 3-12-10. Mar 12, 2010
max seigal
boulder
 
max seigal   boulder
 
Without a doubt this is one of the finest lines in Eldo. Every pitch is classic and there is an amazing variety of climbing throughout the four pitches. Absolutely fantastic. Jun 14, 2008
gloomis  
This is the first route which has let me down at Eldo. I found the dihedral pitch to be a short one-move-wonder with fixed pin & stopper for the move. The roof pitch is CHOSS. The last flake on the roof flexes alot plus it's a jug haul to another one-move-wonder. Don't understand the hype. Apr 21, 2008
Clint Locks
Boulder
 
Clint Locks   Boulder
 
As of 06/07, the slung chock (See Dane's comment) is still there. Fixed 0.5 is not. One pin left on the dihedral pitch. I suppose a person could run 1 and 2 together, if so inclined, but, however you do it, every pitch on this climb is simply spectacular! Jun 16, 2007
Dane Casterson
Boulder
 
Dane Casterson   Boulder
 
Fantastic route! On the dihedral pitch, there is a fixed cam down low, a fixed nut, a pin, and another fixed nut. The fixed pieces sew up the crux section very nicely. And on the roof section, there is a large, fixed chock that has been slung and a 0.5 Camalot at the lip. The 0.5 will definitely hold some falls! Awesome! May 31, 2007
Climbed this yesterday for the first time and it was amazing. While sitting on the belay watching my partner make his way up the second dihedral I noticed a line to the left on the overhanging arete. I was wondering what the rating and name is of this pitch is, if different than Vertigo? Nov 11, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
One of the best routes in Eldo.The difficulty comes from the dihedral pitch, not from the roof pitch. The difficulty being more [dependent] on temperature and humidity than on any other subjective factor. This is presuming that shorter climbers also have better-suited thin fingers. The final roof is not so hard for experienced "steep" climbers, but slab masters might find some trouble turning the lip. The gear on the top half is "as you would like it"- that is to say, if you have the endurance, you can get overhead gear wherever you like and it's solid. Lastly, I think that the "awkward bulge" on the second pitch is awkward enough to merit the 5.10 grade rather than 5.9. Place protection before just getting there to reduce leg-shake once there. I made the mistake of running it out into that position last time I got on it. Yuck. Aug 22, 2005
This is a sick route, but after two years of wanting to do I think in my case I just made it out to be more than it really was. I guess I just wish the roof was another 15 ft long. However, I would settle for 5ft, it is that much fun! You can't beat the exposure. Hanging from the jug before the lip of the roof, getting a shake. Look between your legs. All you see is an awsome line. An overhanging Dihedrial, filled with all sorts of cool gear, then your belayer hanging off some bolts. Below them nothing but air for a real long way. My advice just go do the damn thing. Easier then the Edge! Woo Weee Oct 25, 2004
willem  
There are three pieces of fixed gear on pitch 3: wires above and below the pin. Not sure why the pin is there, the crack takes great gear. May 7, 2003
TBD
TBD  
The fixed pin is still on the 3rd pitch, the nut is not. It's easy to back the pin up with a green alien. On the 4th pitch, there is some webbing jammed in the crack about midway, that's currently the only "fixed" gear.

I'll echo what everyone has said about the rope getting stuck in the crack easily. Thanks to the comments on this site, we delt with the rope travel before it became a problem. If you don't deal with it it will get stuck. Nov 11, 2002
There is currently one fixed pin on the crux pitch and on 07/15/02 there was also a fixed nut just below the pin. The fixed nut mentioned in the comments above for the top of the final pitch is no longer there. The whole route protects well with singles of nuts, TCUs, and cams up to a #2 Camalot..... Jul 16, 2002
Chris "the Duece" Dawson & I watched some poor saps in front of us struggle for about an hour trying to free their snarled line from the jaws of the roof crack. At the time (May 2001) there was a fixed nut right at the lip of the roof that would align your rope perfectly to get snagged when clipped. When I led, I placed a big cam (#3 camalot I think) immediately above the roof on the easier terrain & then reached down & unclipped the fixed nut. I had no problem at all with pulling the rope. I'd highly recommend removing any pro at the lip before you finish the pitch. Placing pro to the right like Joe suggests is also an excellent idea. Feb 9, 2002
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
An alternative to belaying just above the roof is to place a stopper in the crack to the right of the stance to keep the rope out of the crack; works just fine. Oct 15, 2001
I climbed it on 9/23/01 and there was still one pin left at the crux of the third pitch. Sep 23, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
This is good advice, however, the slot above the roof is very wide so you need to take some appropriate gear. Alternatively, run up to the end of the slot and set up a belay but have the leader clip their rope in high and work back to the end of the slot. This saves dragging along some very wide gear that is otherwise not needed. Sep 19, 2001
One key piece of beta that might save yourself a lot of time and aggravation: set up your belay right after the roof on the final pitch. Otherwise the rope is almost guaranteed to get stuck in the crack and your 2nd will have to prusik. I've seen this happen myself and heard many similar tales of woe. Luckily I had the beta myself and didn't have to deal with the problem. Sep 19, 2001
Pitches 1&2, 3&4 can be combined quite nicely. I've heard rumor that you can do the whole bloody thing in one pitch if you use a hanging belay in the groove just above the final overhang. Aug 23, 2001