Type: Trad
FA: Rob Candelaria
Page Views: 1,925 total · 8/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

One-and-a-half stars. This pitch starts as for Art's Spar, and then jogs up and left throught the steep bulge, to finish on the Upper Ramp just right of Grand Giraffe. Approach by starting up Ruper or (for a more strenuous warm-up) the first pitch of Super Slab. Belay in the large right-facing dihedral, just as for Art's Spar. Climb as for Art's Spar for about twenty feet, then where Art's Spar moves right under the obvious roof, arrange some RPs (large ones) and figure out the committing moves up and left. You can step right to get a hands-off rest, between attempts on the moves. Once you commit, you'll discover that there is in fact a jug on the lip, just as you were hoping. There is also a bomber wire. Resist the temptation to hang on the wire, (ahem, like I did) because from here just a couple more strenuous moves (bit of a reach) gain a welcome rest, and good views into the intestinal tract of the Grand Giraffe, just left. The Upper Ramp is just above.

The pitch is awkward and strenuous, and the crux is comparable to say the overhang of Rain. One day the entire flake (where the bomber wire, that you were not supposed to hang on, goes) will fall off, but probably not while you are on it.. : 

Protection

Bring some RPs and wires to protect the approach to the crux. There is also a large Alien, about 1.5" in a pocket. There is a bomber medium wire at the lip. The gear is good, but awkward to arrange. Most of the wires before the crux are behind small flakes, but there is also a good straight-in large-RP slot if you look carefully. Double-rope technique helps. Possibly serious, maybe "s" because you do have to commit to the crux, and you would slap into the steep slab below if you blow it at the lip before clipping the "Thank God" wire.

Name change history

When some folks indicated they felt the original name of "Electric Aunt Jemima" from a name given to an amp by Frank Zappa in a song, a request to change the name to the FA resulted in an agreement to do so.

From Rob Candelaria: "Wow, I can't imagine not knowing Frank Zappa, tsk,tsk... however, I don't mind changing the name. How about "Disclosure"?

Photos