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Routes in The Bastille - W Face

Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakfast in Bed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: D. Breashears, A. Greene, 1975
Page Views: 4,568 total · 22/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


About 40 feet up the hill on the West side of the Bastille, just down from the West Buttress, find a reasonable chalked line ascending up and left to a series of two chunky overhangs. Climb up to the center of the first of these, then move hard left and up past the left side of the second of the two, placing a few cams in under the rooves in horizontals on the way. Clip some fixed gear and move up and right towards a few bolts. The climbing changes here from big moves between big holds at odd angles to big moves between smaller holds at better angles. The climb would be made hardest by forcing a line straight up to the anchor past both bolts, but a side-step here and there makes it feel more like 10a/b.

After clipping the second bolt, step left and ride the face/slab to the anchors above. If you want to descend on a single rope, taks a 60M or longer and rap to the right (uphill). If you have two ropes to descend and have not had enough cimbing, go up an additional 25' to a second set of anchors (5.7). One can traverse to the south from there (5.4) and continue on The West Buttress (5.9 WIDE). The final pitch can finish on The West Buttress(5.7), Hair City (5.9), or the West Face (5.9).


Take a standard rack with cams to 3.5".

The protection is tricky in spots. For the first crux (10d), underclinging left under a roof there are a few so-so cams to be placed in an uneven crack. For the second crux (10d, or easier), you have a bolt just below you. Some say this is S, but the bolt is not far away. The face above is certainly runout, but the grade is closer to 5.8 by the time you are far from the bolts. The route could produce some real thumper falls, and someone could get hurt. This route should not be taken lightly.
I use a couple of the smallest TCU's at the first set of overlaps and then a #3 Camalot in the middle of the larger bulge. This can be placed before committing yourself to the underclings and I think using a full sling on it is a good idea. I don't think going to the second bolt is the best way to go. The route was done for many years by going straight above the first bolt. The second bolt seems superfluous and misleading, it was replaced relatively recently and tends to lead you around to the anticlimatic lower-angled face to the right. The direct finish is brilliant. The difficulties ease quickly and the holds are positive but the climbing is steep and unprotected. I've thought that continuing the pitch by going left around the corner and heading up the NW CORNER would be a good thing to do but haven't done it yet. A fall from the crux of that would be spectacular. If you are attracted to SHINE be advised there is some loose rock up there. Nov 1, 2001
Wow! Classic Eldo.... Nov 12, 2001
This is a three star pitch. Mar 3, 2002
Awesome! Looking at the routes on the Bastille in the database, it seems that folks are awfully stingy with stars for this formation. I give it 3 (or at least 2 and a half) stars. The gear is sparse though actually pretty good for the cruxes. However, getting to the 2nd bolt, which felt like the crux to me, is a bit spicey. Jun 28, 2002
Rob Kepley
  5.10d R
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.10d R
Fun movement with spicy run-outs. This climb definitely has two distinct crux sections. A 60 meter rope will work fine if you swing uphill when rapping off. Jul 30, 2006
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
Not 'R' rated without the direct finish, but be a solid 5.10 climber so you don't get freaked by the 5.8 and 5.9 sections with sparse gear. Aug 13, 2011
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Fun climbing. Challenging and pretty safe. After getting a TCU (yellow?) under the roof, I had gear every 6-9 feet if needed for the challenging bits and then a piece or two for the easy slab above. Jan 12, 2015
bonnie bonbits
colorado front range
bonnie bonbits   colorado front range
Ermahgerd! If a sport route and a trad route drank tea and made a baby, this bundle of ten perfect bits would be it! In the "roof crux", I got a bomber hand jam, then a bomber tight fist, and once I pulled the bulge and stood up, voila! A hueco mouth waiting to go nom, nom, nom on a perfect cup! Perhaps this one was made for 5'2" climbers with #1 sized hands. I fired straight up direct to the anchors, and indeed, I think it a bit too run out for my mental happiness, but, as they say, you get what you get and you don't pitch a fit. Wow. Mar 19, 2015