Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: D. Breashears, A. Greene, 1975
Page Views: 4,825 total · 22/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

About 40 feet up the hill on the West side of the Bastille, just down from the West Buttress, find a reasonable chalked line ascending up and left to a series of two chunky overhangs. Climb up to the center of the first of these, then move hard left and up past the left side of the second of the two, placing a few cams in under the rooves in horizontals on the way. Clip some fixed gear and move up and right towards a few bolts. The climbing changes here from big moves between big holds at odd angles to big moves between smaller holds at better angles. The climb would be made hardest by forcing a line straight up to the anchor past both bolts, but a side-step here and there makes it feel more like 10a/b.

After clipping the second bolt, step left and ride the face/slab to the anchors above. If you want to descend on a single rope, taks a 60M or longer and rap to the right (uphill). If you have two ropes to descend and have not had enough cimbing, go up an additional 25' to a second set of anchors (5.7). One can traverse to the south from there (5.4) and continue on The West Buttress (5.9 WIDE). The final pitch can finish on The West Buttress(5.7), Hair City (5.9), or the West Face (5.9).

Protection

Take a standard rack with cams to 3.5".

The protection is tricky in spots. For the first crux (10d), underclinging left under a roof there are a few so-so cams to be placed in an uneven crack. For the second crux (10d, or easier), you have a bolt just below you. Some say this is S, but the bolt is not far away. The face above is certainly runout, but the grade is closer to 5.8 by the time you are far from the bolts. The route could produce some real thumper falls, and someone could get hurt. This route should not be taken lightly.

Photos