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Routes in The Bastille - W Face
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Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blind Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Breakfast in Bed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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In Plain Sight T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Out to Lunge Variation T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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West Face Directissma T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
| Type: |
Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Fixed Hardware
(7) |
| FA: | Layton Kor |
| Page Views: | 26,010 total · 89/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
West Buttress is one of the best "5.9" routes in the canyon, with varied, exposed, and funky climbing. Scramble up below the west wall of the Bastille a little ways to a level section below a large block. The bolts on Hair City should be directly above.
P1. Scramble up to a high placement, then traverse 15 feet straight left above a bulging wall to a stance below a thin crack with a couple of pitons. Instant exposure, and even better if the creek is roaring! Climb the crack for about 10 feet (crux, sandbag), allow yourself to get sucked up and left to a stance, and then continue up easier but steep and somewhat runout rock to the belay anchor.
Direct start: begin below a slab with a lone bolt that's visible where the wall turns vertical; the pitons on the regular start are more or less directly above. The slab is a little spicy but not too hard; the move by the bolt has been upgraded to 10b in the Levin guidebook, and I would concur, and it would be even harder if you're short. Above the bolt is some airy climbing with one thank-God placement before you merge with the regular route at the end of the traverse.
Direct finish: instead of traversing above the pitons, you can continue "straight up the crack at 5.10", though this can be hard to initiate unless you step left first and then back right to the crack, and done that way the crack itself is easier than the move by the pitons. Either way, this variation is awesome and takes good pro once you engage the crack. (120 feet).
You can't really go wrong with any of the pitch one variations but the double-direct is probably the best quality climbing overall (and certainly the most, er, direct), in my opinion.
P2. Head up and right to the crack formed by a large detached flake/pillar. Climb that (5.9 at a bolt) as it widens to a chimney and belay on top at more bolts. A variation traverses right from the bolt to the outside of the pillar to merge with the top of Hair City's P1 at 8+ (bad fall potential).
P3. Head up and left to a shallow chimney that offers a 5.7 passage through a roof band. Belay on the next ledge or continue easily to the top of the Bastille. This pitch is good, but an even better alternative is to tackle the overhang directly by continuing on Hair City.
Photos
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