Type: Sport Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Colin Lantz
Page Views: 14,326 total · 65/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


Your Mother climbs the painfully obvious overhang that juts above the descent ramp on the west side of the Bastille. Access the route either via the steep climber's trail along the west face of the Bastille or walk a flat half mile along the Fowler Trail from the Rattlesnake Gulch parking lot.

This route, which climbs well-chalked underclings out the big purple overhang left of Neon Lights, often has in situ draws, facilitating the heinous last clip. Seven bolts take you to double-bolt anchors. While very public, this is certainly one of the cleanest and most spectacular sport routes in the Front Range.

I once saw a photo of the route in a Feng Shui book that described the rock as a "benevolent frog spirit." Look at it from the top of the canyon and you'll see what I mean.


This is entirely a sport route, though you may be able to place a shaky piece before the first bolt if you're gripped. A #2 Camalot should be sufficient to anchor your belayer on the ledge.

There are 7 bolts with permadraws and a two bolt anchor with permacarabiners.
Spectacular route on beautiful stone. Good moves that are actually quite moderate lead you to a painfully tough throw at the end. Fun route with great fall when you miss the crux move!!! Mar 27, 2002
Anonymous Coward
Anonymous Coward  
For full entertainment value, after sending the route lower off and down-clean the draws- at the lowest bolt have your belayer give you a touch of slack and then let go...good training for Elitch's Amusement Park.

PS The perfect place to be for late afternoon sun. Apr 3, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12 PG13
Careful up there. The larger of the two holds by the 5th bolt is crunching and creeking so loud that your belayer can hear it. I had my doubts- I tried to work the crimper next to it and couldn't pull the move that way. Eventually, I got pumped and yarded on it anyway. It did hold me, but I would approach it with caution, if I tried again.

I think it is also the 5th bolt that is almost shattered out as well. There is no danger of hitting the ground if it were to pull, but you might get slapped in the head with a chunk of rock. Aug 13, 2002
FYI...the last in situ draw has a sticky carabiner. I will replace it next time I am up there, but how do people feel about a wire gate? May 24, 2003
Willem, feel free to change that last sticky biner up there. Be warned that everything goes back with me when I take my draws down :) So, please replace it with a Petzl bent gate! May 29, 2003
I just wanted to thank the jerk(s) who stole my bottom two draws. Too bad you weren't strong enough to steal the rest! Jun 9, 2003
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
Classic Eldo-style sport climbing at its best. The position is spectacular. This route gets right to the point in a short distance. Jul 26, 2005
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
Thanks for the replacement work. I've been trying this route a bit lately. It is way hard to clip that last draw. I just skip it, but alas I fell reaching for the anchor anyhow. I'll go back and get it next time.

The last bolt seems further away than all the previous ones. It makes sense to me to move it down 16 inches or so. Good idea! Jul 25, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Great way to finish any route on the Bastille. I do it almost every time I climb up there. Oct 17, 2008
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
An interesting debate at the ACE site. Colin stated directly that the bolt in question was a mistake but many said it added to the "character" of the route. Thanks Matt for at least offering to fix the problem. Oct 25, 2008
Colin Lantz
Nederland, CO
Colin Lantz   Nederland, CO
Did the FA on August 1, 1988. On a historical note, I am pretty sure that this was the first new route put up in Eldo with the bolts being placed with the aid of a power drill (Bosch Bulldog). Jul 27, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
Wow, this route is really fun. I had for some reason or another overlooked this route even though I wanted to do it years ago. Great flowly climbing on mostly jugs to a really fun finish and huge whip potential. Sack up and take the whip, it's really exciting with stellar position. I'm just plain impressed. Jul 12, 2014
Just went up this route yesterday-- terrific! Holds feel a bit creaky, but nothing came out on me.

Side note-- the last bolt before the anchors looks quite loose, probably due to more than a few whippers. Could use a little love next time someone is up there. Oct 19, 2015
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
ACE has upgraded bolt seven and the anchors to beefy glue-ins. Anchor now has perma carabiners for quick and easy lower offs. ACE will order up a few more permadraws for the two bolts (i.e., first and last) currently devoid of such. Aug 22, 2018
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
This is the sharpest Eldo route I have ever worked. Every time I took a burn, my hands would get nicked up. Even with precision taping and careful hand hold placements, I would suffer lots of small micro cuts. Smaller handed climbers don't seem to get cut up as much. Crux lob is lots of fun. IMHO the hardest .12d I have done to date (i.e., six .12ds total to date).

At least three critical under clings are used and a few side pulls for good measure. The route is broken down into three basic parts; easy intro terrain for two bolts, bolts three through six which once wired flows well with a few low end 5.12 moves, and lastly the decent rest at bolt six and the crux situated directly above it.

There are two ways to do the crux sequence just above bolt six that I categorize based on climber height:
  • < 6'2" - the usual left hand variation. Hit the left hand crimp, get your right foot high, and toss up and right for all you're worth onto the good diagonal rail. This is desperate for tall or long legged climbers, as you can't get the good high right foot, and even if you can, the setup is very bunched.
  • > 6'2" - the big guy, right hand variation. From the double handed undercling flake at bolt six, make a big reach up with right hand to the flat shelf, and then match with your left hand (e.g., see photo link below of Colin Lantz with both hands matched on this exact hold). Now make a long horizontal right handed toss onto a blob feature that has a decent sidepull incut - this is a hard move, and your feet will likely cut, but once stable, you can quickly get your right foot on a solid smear. Lastly, press hard with your right foot on the smear, flag with your left leg, and shoot your right hand directly above to a hard-to-spot but good sidepull up high. Unless you posses great static power or have a superb reach, you may have to jump - overall, a tricky coordination move. Another move brings you onto the good diagonal rail where the two variations merge. Clip bolt seven, and finish up to the chains.

cdn-files.apstatic.com/clim… Sep 10, 2018