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Routes in The Bastille - W Face

Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakfast in Bed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Colin Lantz
Page Views: 13,037 total, 63/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Your Mother climbs the painfully obvious overhang that juts above the descent ramp on the west side of the Bastille. Access the route either via the steep climber's trail along the west face of the Bastille or walk a flat half mile along the Fowler Trail from the Rattlesnake Gulch parking lot.

This route, which climbs well-chalked underclings out the big purple overhang left of Neon Lights, often has in situ draws, facilitating the heinous last clip. Six bolts take you to double-bolt anchors. While very public, this is certainly one of the cleanest and most spectacular sport routes in the Front Range.

I once saw a photo of the route in a Feng Shui book that described the rock as a "benevolent frog spirit." Look at it from the top of the canyon and you'll see what I mean.

Protection

This is entirely a sport route, though you may be able to place a shaky piece before the first bolt if you're gripped. A #2 Camalot should be sufficient to anchor your belayer on the ledge.
Ebeth
 
Ebeth  
 
Just went up this route yesterday-- terrific! Holds feel a bit creaky, but nothing came out on me.

Side note-- the last bolt before the anchors looks quite loose, probably due to more than a few whippers. Could use a little love next time someone is up there. Oct 19, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
Wow, this route is really fun. I had for some reason or another overlooked this route even though I wanted to do it years ago. Great flowly climbing on mostly jugs to a really fun finish and huge whip potential. Sack up and take the whip, it's really exciting with stellar position. I'm just plain impressed. Jul 12, 2014
Colin Lantz
Nederland, CO
  5.12d
Colin Lantz   Nederland, CO
  5.12d
Did the FA on August 1, 1988. On a historical note, I am pretty sure that this was the first new route put up in Eldo with the bolts being placed with the aid of a power drill (Bosch Bulldog). Jul 27, 2012
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
An interesting debate at the ACE site. Colin stated directly that the bolt in question was a mistake but many said it added to the "character" of the route. Thanks Matt for at least offering to fix the problem. Oct 25, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Great way to finish any route on the Bastille. I do it almost every time I climb up there. Oct 17, 2008
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
Thanks for the replacement work. I've been trying this route a bit lately. It is way hard to clip that last draw. I just skip it, but alas I fell reaching for the anchor anyhow. I'll go back and get it next time.

The last bolt seems further away than all the previous ones. It makes sense to me to move it down 16 inches or so. Good idea! Jul 25, 2008
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
Classic Eldo-style sport climbing at its best. The position is spectacular. This route gets right to the point in a short distance. Jul 26, 2005
I just wanted to thank the jerk(s) who stole my bottom two draws. Too bad you weren't strong enough to steal the rest! Jun 9, 2003
Willem, feel free to change that last sticky biner up there. Be warned that everything goes back with me when I take my draws down :) So, please replace it with a Petzl bent gate! May 29, 2003
willem  
FYI...the last in situ draw has a sticky carabiner. I will replace it next time I am up there, but how do people feel about a wire gate? May 24, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12 PG13
Careful up there. The larger of the two holds by the 5th bolt is crunching and creeking so loud that your belayer can hear it. I had my doubts- I tried to work the crimper next to it and couldn't pull the move that way. Eventually, I got pumped and yarded on it anyway. It did hold me, but I would approach it with caution, if I tried again.

I think it is also the 5th bolt that is almost shattered out as well. There is no danger of hitting the ground if it were to pull, but you might get slapped in the head with a chunk of rock. Aug 13, 2002
For full entertainment value, after sending the route lower off and down-clean the draws- at the lowest bolt have your belayer give you a touch of slack and then let go...good training for Elitch's Amusement Park.

PS The perfect place to be for late afternoon sun. Apr 3, 2002
Spectacular route on beautiful stone. Good moves that are actually quite moderate lead you to a painfully tough throw at the end. Fun route with great fall when you miss the crux move!!! Mar 27, 2002