Type: Trad
FA: Derek Hersey, Robb Cadwell
Page Views: 1,388 total · 7/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Sep 29, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This seldom-climbed route is actually real good. Step out left from the chimney quite high on the top pitch of Blind Faith, and pass a couple angling scooped edges (Alien in flake above) to the arete. Here boldly layback to easy ground. Don't blow the layback. Up a short face above, move left, (watch for rope-drag problems) then finally mantle inelegantly onto a very exposed "diving-board" block. Technically moderate for Eldo 5.10b, but somewhat committing.

Protection

A regular Eldo rack will suffice, a few wires, and Aliens, and a handful of shoulder length slings

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b R
Boy, if I climbed where you did, that is ballsy use of a TCU/Alien behind a flake... looked pretty bad to me.

I placed gear in the crack in the chimney, a large bomber stopper & bomber Camalot an a long sling, and then headed left. The first stem would have been hard for a short person. Then up and left on runout terrian. I got nothing good in for quite a ways (severe fall potential) and then got several bomber pieces once near or on the pinnacle. This gear was 1 ea. red & brown tricam + a few large Camalots in the back of huecos + I threaded a few needle-eyes. Of course, they were creative placememnts, but they were good gear.

I'd only rate this pitch 1-star. It will improve with traffic. May 10, 2002
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
  5.10 R
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
  5.10 R
I stepped over onto the face at the lowest place I could. Definitely not an option for those who are altitudinally challenged.

That first, downward-facing flake flexed the full range on a BD 0.75 when I placed one behind it. Spooky. So, I took it back out and my first gear was a slung horn a bit higher. (Bad fall potential beforehand). The rest was fun and better protected. I placed a BD 0.5, a medium nut, looped a keyhole, and slung the top horn (for TR protecting my second).

Interesting moves down low, cool holds up high, great position. But overall quality is average. [IMHO that flake should be trundled] Oct 29, 2007