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Routes in The Bastille - W Face

Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakfast in Bed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 100 ft Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: E. Webster, C. Dreimen, 1984.
Page Views: 901 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 16, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route wanders around a bit taking a line that finds the most formerly unclimbed territory without making a truly difficult line. Some runouts, funky moves, and marginal or distant protection will be had along the way.

From the bases of Breakfast in Bed & Out To Lunge, look right 5m to a crack and nearby corner. Start climbing the crack, working upward, then up and left to gain two pins, passing a tough bulge by tending strong left to join Out To Lunge. Watch not to drop loose rock, as there are a few suspect areas in the week band after going up and left under the roof with O.T.L.. Having passed the steep section to the right, climb back up and right on good holds to pass another pin and keep climbing upward on indistinct terrain for maybe 15 meters more. There is drag on this pitch if you don't take long slings and manage gear placements. Rossiter suggests double ropes in his book.

Protection

A standard light rack - 1 set stoppers, one set cams, a few Tricams if desired and a few draws for the "so-so" pins that protect the crux moves. Bring some LONG slings to avoid drag on this zig-zag line.

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