Elevation: 5,500 ft
GPS: 39.93, -105.283 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 92,138 total · 515/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The Bastille is a cornerstone of climbing in Eldorado Canyon State Park. According to P. Ament in High Over Boulder this was once called Chimney Rock and may have been named The Bastille by Stan Shepard in 1957. This is the section for the W Face. There is probably little for the lower end difficulty climber nor the high end climber here. The section of the crag provides a wonderful afternoon exposure for the cooler months. Topping out provides a wonderous view of this spirit-elevating canyon.

The legendary, Jim Erickson, elevated himself to the challenge of an onsight, solo, first ascent of Blind Faith on the W face. Today, this remains a crag that holds a special place in the hearts of climbers who have progressed to climb some of the great walls and peaks of the world.

This crag has been a proving grounds for some of Colorado's finest including: Layton Kor, Larry Dalke, Pat Ament, Bob Culp, Stan Shepard, Jim Erickson, Art Higbee, Duncan Ferguson, Kevin Donald, Rob Candelaria, Roger Briggs, David Breashears, Derek Hersey, Ed Webster, Colin Lantz, Chris Archer, among others.

Some of the better routes here include: West Chimney, 5.7; Hair City, 5.9 s; West Buttress, 5.9++; Blind Faith, 5.10a; Rain, 5.10d s; Northwest Corner (see N Face), 5.11a s; Sunset Boulevard, 5.11b/c; & Your Mother, 5.12d.

Note, there is significant amounts of loose rock & flexing flakes on this face.

Descents off the top traverse along an exposed-at-times break/ramp near the top to the N side of the rock and gain a 3rd class ramp down to the Fowler Trail. From here, descend the West Face hiking trail (3rd class near the bottom) back down to the base. A few of the routes have rappel descents, but they are the minority.

Come and climb here, but realize that many share your passion for the experiences found on this stone.

Getting There

Once you enter Eldorado Canyon State Park, you will hopefully find parking within 200 yards in one of two areas. Park. Walk up the road to the obvious bridge across South Boulder Creek. Look up and left. This is The Bastille. The west face is accessed off a 3rd class trail just around the corner and up the steep slope. Be careful in wet conditions, with little ones and, please, no dogs here.

27 Total Climbs

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Location: The Bastille - W Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Bastille - W Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 163
West Arete
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 200
Breakfast in Bed
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 4
Blind Side
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 88
Out to Lunge
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 427
Hair City
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 5
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 679
Blind Faith
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 356
West Buttress
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 94
Rain
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 13
Neon Lights
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 85
West Face
Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
 3
West Face Directissma
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 196
Sunset Boulevard
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Stem Gem
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 59
Your Mother
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
West Arete
 163
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Breakfast in Bed
 200
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Blind Side
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Out to Lunge
 88
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Hair City
 427
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 3 pitches
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Blind Faith
 679
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
West Buttress
 356
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Rain
 94
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
Neon Lights
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad 2 pitches
West Face
 85
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
West Face Directissma
 3
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad
Sunset Boulevard
 196
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Stem Gem
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Your Mother
 59
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Bastille - W Face »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: Southwest · West
Sunny Roughly 11am to 8pm during high season
6am
8pm
Details: Most routes are in the sun by late morning, though the classic Blind Faith is more tucked in. In the winter, the sun barely makes it down this far in the canyon, but can hit it in mid-afternoon.

Weather Averages

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