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Routes in The Bastille - W Face

Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakfast in Bed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Elevation: 5,500 ft
GPS: 39.93, -105.283 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 52,390 total, 367/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

The Bastille is a cornerstone of climbing in Eldorado Canyon State Park. According to P. Ament in High Over Boulder this was once called Chimney Rock and may have been named The Bastille by Stan Shepard in 1957. This is the section for the W Face. There is probably little for the lower end difficulty climber nor the high end climber here. The section of the crag provides a wonderful afternoon exposure for the cooler months. Topping out provides a wonderous view of this spirit-elevating canyon.

The legendary, Jim Erickson, elevated himself to the challenge of an onsight, solo, first ascent of Blind Faith on the W face. Today, this remains a crag that holds a special place in the hearts of climbers who have progressed to climb some of the great walls and peaks of the world.

This crag has been a proving grounds for some of Colorado's finest including: Layton Kor, Larry Dalke, Pat Ament, Bob Culp, Stan Shepard, Jim Erickson, Art Higbee, Duncan Ferguson, Kevin Donald, Rob Candelaria, Roger Briggs, David Breashears, Derek Hersey, Ed Webster, Colin Lantz, Chris Archer, among others.

Some of the better routes here include: West Chimney, 5.7; Hair City, 5.9 s; West Buttress, 5.9++; Blind Faith, 5.10a; Rain, 5.10d s; Northwest Corner (see N Face), 5.11a s; Sunset Boulevard, 5.11b/c; & Your Mother, 5.12d.

Note, there is significant amounts of loose rock & flexing flakes on this face.

Descents off the top traverse along an exposed-at-times break/ramp near the top to the N side of the rock and gain a 3rd class ramp down to the Fowler Trail. From here, descend the West Face hiking trail (3rd class near the bottom) back down to the base. A few of the routes have rappel descents, but they are the minority.

Come and climb here, but realize that many share your passion for the experiences found on this stone.
Seasonal Closures Details

Getting There

Once you enter Eldorado Canyon State Park, you will hopefully find parking within 200 yards in one of two areas. Park. Walk up the road to the obvious bridge across South Boulder Creek. Look up and left. This is The Bastille. The west face is accessed off a 3rd class trail just around the corner and up the steep slope. Be careful in wet conditions, with little ones and, please, no dogs here.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Bastille - W Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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