Type: Trad
FA: Harrison, Stuberg, Brooks, 1981.
Page Views: 262 total · 1/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Short (60 feet) route...just down from the Bastille trail on upper west face...locate large V-slot with a huge chockstone that you can easily climb under. Climb the messy looking V-corner and just above the Chockstone turn small roof into steep V-slot (crux). Cruise this to the large and messy belay ledge.

Protection

Small cams and medium hexes.

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Voodoo.
Voodoo.
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Just above the crux on the first pitch. The chockstone identifies the route.<br> Photo: Roth.
Just above the crux on the first pitch. The ch…
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5 Comments

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Chris Fisher
Chris Fisher  
[Definitely] not the rock quality you expect from Eldo. Getting into the v-slot was the only fun move. I also did the second pitch and found myself climbing through tons of pigeon droppings. Jul 2, 2001
Peter Spindloe
BC
Peter Spindloe   BC
It doesn't deserve the star that it get's in the new Eldo Guide. To start the second pitch go directly up the bulge just left of where the first pitch comes up and traverse under the pigeon shit to a very licheny corner. Go up the corner to a ledge and up an obvious but not pretty groove. It's probably better to rappel than to try to find the walk-off. Oct 22, 2001
Clint Locks
Boulder
 
Clint Locks   Boulder
 
I had a lot of fun on this climb..P1 only. It's not the 'classic', by any means, but I think this would be a great climb to take a less-experienced climber on, or good for those 'time-frame issue' climbing mornings, (if Out To Lunge and Breakfast in Bed was busy)--It's short, fun, and no raps required. The pro was a little weird, though, I thought. Based on comments, I'm glad I didn't do the Poo-poo second pitch. May 29, 2003
Bruce Berkowitz
Bruce Berkowitz  
Agree with above. I thought this climb was highly overrated in both quality and difficulty. Theres only one remotely challanging move on the climb . Aug 22, 2003
XOG
XOG  
If you like doo-doo, do do Voodoo. Wrote that next to the route description in my guide in '93 or 4 or so, sounds like it still applies! Jan 14, 2004