Type: Trad
FA: Briggs & Candelaria, 1975
Page Views: 10,385 total · 38/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Interesting route on the west face of the Bastille. Starts out with some dicey moves on loose rock and then immediately shoots up an exposed arete on positive huecos.

I found that Rossiter's topo made finding this climb, based on features, rather difficult. However, it is easy to find - it is the first obvious line to the right of Blind Faith. When facing the obvious Blind Faith crack, look about 50 feet uphill. This climb is immediately to the right of the broken, rotten strip of rock, and it starts next to a huge Christmas tree up on a ledge. Scramble up to this ledge (Rossiter indicates that you should climb uphill and then cut across on the ledge, but it's just as easy to go straight up it to the tree). Begin the climb here - look for a piton and a fixed stopper up on the broken rock in front of you (per Carl Sampurna: above and slightly left, but don't feel compelled to head for it, there are several possible paths through the bottom section).

The climb initially traverses right on scary rock (requiring balancy moves), and then shoots straight up a chimney right next to the arete, eventually moving out onto the arete. The climb tops out on easy ground (5.4) and belay's at a tree. Walk off the top.

I found the climb to be well-protected but probably requires some looking around for good placements. However, once you move out onto the arete the jugs are so huge and positive that it's easier to just run it out. The climb's hardest moves are in the beginning and it progressively gets easier the higher you go.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Eldo rack (with perhaps some longer runners).