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Areas in The Bastille

Bastille - N Face, The 31 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 33
Bastille - W Face, The 22 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Elevation: 5,500 ft
GPS: 39.931, -105.283 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 186,220 total, 1,303/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

The Bastille is a cornerstone of climbing in Eldorado Canyon State Park. According to P. Ament in High Over Boulder, this was once called Chimney Rock and may have been named The Bastille by Stan Shepard in 1957. This modest, 350 foot crag can be divided into The North face and the West face for organizational purpose. The North face is steep, shaded, and has exceptional routes for intermediate climbers and advanced climbers who seek out the mental challenges in addition to the physical. There are those who counts the seconds attempting to set solo speed records here. There is probably little for the lower end difficulty climber nor the high end climber here. The West face provides a wonderful afternoon exposure for the cooler months. Topping out provides a wonderous view of this spirit-elevating canyon.

Once, the summit provided an anchor point for the cable upon which crossed Ivy Baldwin on many death-defying crossings of the canyon. Today, the cable remains testament to a disappearing breed of adventurer. Climbing here began at least in the 1950s. There are legends of Frenchmen swilling champagne during an ascent up this rock on French Independence Day. The legendary, Jim Erickson, elevated himself to the challenge of an onsight, solo, first ascent of Blind Faith on the West face. Today, this remains a crag that holds a special place in the hearts of climbers who have progressed to climb some of the great walls and peaks of the world.

Our climbing history shows the first recorded ascent within the canyon when two Army climbers ascended the Bastille Crack in 1954 according to P. Ament in High Over Boulder & R. Rossiter in Boulder Climbs South.

This crag has been a proving grounds for some of Colorado's finest including: Layton Kor, Steve Komito, Ray Northcutt, Pat Ament, Larry Dalke, Dave Rearick, Bob Culp, Stan Shepard, Roger Briggs, Jim Erickson, Art Higbee, Duncan Ferguson, Dudley Chelton, Jeff Lowe, Kevin Donald, Rob Candelaria, David Breashears, Ed Webster, Christian Griffith, Colin Lantz, Derek Hersey, Mic Fairchild, Steve Levin, Chris Archer, among others.

Some of the finest routes here include: The Bastille Crack, 5.7; Hair City, 5.9 s; Werksupp, 5.9+; West Buttress, 5.9++; Blind Faith, 5.10a; Outer Space, 5.10c; Northcutt Start, 5.10d (likely Colorado's first 5.10 in 1959 by the gifted Ray Northcutt); X-M, 5.10d s; Rain, 5.10d s; Northwest Corner, 5.11a s; Wide Country, 5.11a s; Sunset Boulevard, 5.11b/c; The Spice Tour, 5.11 s; Hairstyles and Attitudes, 5.12c/d; Your Mother, 5.12d.

There are so many variations, linkups that it may be hard to list them all and unmotivating for most to submit these to the database.

Note, there is still significant amounts of loose rock on this crag and pedestrians & cars lie below. Also, there is much aging fixed hardware here.

Descents off the top traverse along a break/ramp near the top to the North side of the rock and gain a 3rd class ramp down to the Fowler Trail. From here, descend the West Face hiking trail (3rd class near the bottom) back down to the base. A few of the routes have rappel descents, but they are the minority.

Come and climb here, but realize that many share your passion for the experiences found on this stone.
Seasonal Closures Details

Getting There

Once you enter Eldorado Canyon State Park, you will hopefully find parking within 200 yards in one of two areas. Park. Walk uphill to the obvious bridge across South Boulder Creek. Look up and left. This is The Bastille. The N face is accessed off the road. The W face is accessed off a 3rd class trail just around the corner and up the steep slope.

57 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Bastille

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Bastille Crack
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Arete
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breakfast in Bed
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Werk Supp
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Hair City
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blind Faith
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Buttress
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Outer Space
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
X-M
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
March of Dimes
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Northcutt Start
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Rain
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face
Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Corner
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunset Boulevard
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Bastille Crack Bastille - N Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
West Arete Bastille - W Face 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Breakfast in Bed Bastille - W Face 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Werk Supp Bastille - N Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Hair City Bastille - W Face 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 3 pitches
Blind Faith Bastille - W Face 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
West Buttress Bastille - W Face 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Outer Space Bastille - N Face 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad 2 pitches
X-M Bastille - N Face 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad 3 pitches
March of Dimes Bastille - N Face 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Northcutt Start Bastille - N Face 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Rain Bastille - W Face 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
West Face Bastille - W Face 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Northwest Corner Bastille - N Face 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Sunset Boulevard Bastille - W Face 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Bastille »

Weather Averages

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Hank? Sep 19, 2007
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
Last week two base jumpers launched themselves off the Bastille. Everyone turned around to watch as the parachute made a huge pop when deployed. It was quite amazing to watch, but seemed just super sketchy. The chute opened probably half way down and it seemed rather easy to be blown onto the towers across the river. Still pretty amazing...I'm guessing this is illegal? But does anyone know? Curious to see if anything happened to them as I can only imagine the rangers saw it. Sep 19, 2007

More About The Bastille

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