Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (14)
FA: D. Michael, R. Briggs, 1988
Page Views: 18,846 total · 85/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Apr 2, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This sensational pitch, formerly called Space Invaders II, parallels the last pitch of Outer Space, about 25 feet to the left. The simplest and fastest approach is to get to the top of the third pitch of the Bastille Crack, belay, and then launch out right along the stratum (~20') to a short, left-facing dihedral. A line of ring bolts straight up the steep wall above marks the route. There are two hard sections separated by a good rest with a knee-lock. The lower section (.11b/c) just gets you warmed up for the upper crux. You'll execute a series of intricate moves in a short distance in order to set up for the balancy crux moves. Look for a hidden pocket/dish and then make a couple of big moves to finish it off onto a flat ledge. From here the route joins the original Space Invaders at .11a, past 3 more bolts (plus small gear) to the top. Concerning the rating, the Eldo guide calls the route .12c/d but nowhere is it any harder than .12b. The crux is kind of involved but the moves are not hard 5.12. Using Genesis (.12c) as a yardstick, H&A should be rated quite a bit easier. Perhaps the stiff rating is more a result of the amazing exposure rather than the actual moves. One of the things that make this route so fun is that it is very well protected. Combine that with its stunning setting and aesthetic positions, and you've got one of the best pitches in the canyon. If you climb 5.12 and crave exposure, then this is a must-do route!

Protection

10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Gear is needed for approach pitches.

Photos