Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Bastille - N Face

Bastille Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coach's Demise T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cross-country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crossfire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
DNF 5.10 variation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Derek-Tissima TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Direct North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Hairstyles and Attitudes T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Independent Study T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Interceptor T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lilliburlero T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Liquor Mart T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Madame Guillotine S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
March of Dimes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Marie Antoinette T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Model Citizen T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Nexus T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northcutt Start T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Northeast Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Northwest Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Outer Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Outer Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Prow Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Saturnalia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Shatek's Ramp-age T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Space Invaders T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Spice Tour, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Werk Supp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Country T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Wide Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
X-M T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Sport, 180 ft Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Erik Fedor, Rob Candelaria, 1989
Page Views: 3,738 total, 40/month
Shared By: Scott Bennett on Apr 20, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Madame Guillotine is a fine sport pitch on the clean, blank-looking face between Werk Supp and Bastille Crack.

Start up Marie Antoinette, a thin crack just to the right of Werk Supp that ends about 20' up. Where the crack ends, embark on a long, rising, bolt-protected traverse to the right (crux). The climbing here is very typical of Eldo: you either have a decent handhold, or a decent foothold, but rarely both!

Before reaching Bastille Crack, continue straight up past more bolts on fun, thin face climbing (5.11). After the last bolt, trend right to meet up with Bastille Crack just below its second belay.

There are a few worthy variations:
If you want a short, single pitch of hard climbing, you can do the crux of MG past the first 4 bolts, and then traverse right into the crux of the Northcutt Start, and finish at the two bolt anchor on that route.

If you want a long, but somewhat easier pitch, you can climb Marie Antoinette through it's crux runout (5.9X), up to the bolt on that route, and then traverse up and right to join the upper half of Madame Guillotine (5.11). Belay on Bastille Crack.

The proudest link-up would be Madame Guillotine into Hairstyles and Attitudes!

Protection

Many draws and a light rack.

I used a yellow Alien getting up to the first bolt, and then a green and a red Camalot to make the belay on the Bastille Crack at the end of the pitch (fixed pin here as well).

Photos

News Flash - All nine bolts on Madame Guillotine were recently replaced. All new bolts are 1/2" x 4.75" stainless Powers 5-piece. Allegedly completed by masked bandits with bad attitudes and a beat up Bosch. Oct 8, 2012
A few more variations for those looking to enjoy the upper 5.11 section of MG:
You can start on the Northcutt Start, and continue up the thin corner to start clipping bolts on MG.
You can also Climb Werk Supp to Nexus into the upper 3 bolts of MG.

All are great variation pitches on good rock! Sep 24, 2010
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
FA: Erik Fedor, Rob Candelaria, 1989. Apr 20, 2010
Sorry, I don't have my guidebook with me to check the FA info. Anyone know who put this up?
-Scott Apr 20, 2010