Type: Sport, 180 ft (55 m) Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Erik Fedor, Rob Candelaria, 1989
Page Views: 5,775 total · 41/month
Shared By: Scott Bennett on Apr 20, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Madame Guillotine is a fine sport pitch on the clean, blank-looking face between Werk Supp and Bastille Crack.

Start up Marie Antoinette, a thin crack just to the right of Werk Supp that ends about 20' up. Where the crack ends, embark on a long, rising, bolt-protected traverse to the right (crux). The climbing here is very typical of Eldo: you either have a decent handhold, or a decent foothold, but rarely both!

Before reaching Bastille Crack, continue straight up past more bolts on fun, thin face climbing (5.11). After the last bolt, trend right to meet up with Bastille Crack just below its second belay.

There are a few worthy variations:
If you want a short, single pitch of hard climbing, you can do the crux of MG past the first 4 bolts, and then traverse right into the crux of the Northcutt Start, and finish at the two bolt anchor on that route.

If you want a long, but somewhat easier pitch, you can climb Marie Antoinette through it's crux runout (5.9X), up to the bolt on that route, and then traverse up and right to join the upper half of Madame Guillotine (5.11). Belay on Bastille Crack.

The proudest link-up would be Madame Guillotine into Hairstyles and Attitudes!

Protection

Many draws and a light rack.

I used a yellow Alien getting up to the first bolt, and then a green and a red Camalot to make the belay on the Bastille Crack at the end of the pitch (fixed pin here as well).

Photos