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The Bastille Crack
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.5 from 2,327
votes
Routes in The Bastille - N Face
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Bastille Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coach's Demise T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cross-country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Crossfire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dalke Offwidth T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Derek-Tissima TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X |
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Direct North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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DNF 5.10 variation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hairstyles and Attitudes T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Independent Study T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inner Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Interceptor T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Lilliburlero T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Liquor Mart T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Madame Guillotine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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March of Dimes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Marie Antoinette T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Marie de Guillotine T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Model Citizen T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Nexus T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Northcutt Guillotine T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Northcutt Start T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Northeast Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Northwest Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Outer Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Outer Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Prow Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Saturnalia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Shatek's Ramp-age T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Space Invaders T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Spice Tour, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Werk Supp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wide Country T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Wide Country Lite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wide Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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X-M T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: |
Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
| FA: | US Army climbers, 1954. FFA: Stan Shepard, Allen Bergen, 1957 |
| Page Views: | 223,872 total · 765/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
One of the most classic climbs in the country, it begins right off the road on the Bastille, a 350' cliff on the left as you enter the canyon. Often crowded, a weekday is probably the best time to attempt this climb.
The climb is north facing and in the shade until mid-afternoon. As Jim Erickson said in his classic 1980 Rocky Heights guidebook, "avoid it like the plague if the weather is not warm, or you will shiver away much of its charm."
Start at the center of the north face of the Bastille, below a hand crack that starts 20' up the wall, with a huge, serrated flake to its right.
The first pitch has been the site of numerous accidents, so make sure you're solid on 5.7 crack climbing and placing pro before attempting to lead it.
P1. 5.7, 60'. Climb up to the flake and step left to the crack. Jam or layback up the polished crack (crux), then follow the crack up and left to a small stance at a 2-bolt anchor with chains. You can belay here (if you want to watch/coach your second through the crux), or continue with the second pitch.
P2. 5.6, 90'. Climb up to the chimney left of the bolts, and step left onto the face. Climb up to a finger crack, then traverse right above a little roof (crux). Continue up steep, enjoyable cracks and angle up left on easy ground to a sloping ledge by a steep wall. Belay at a crack with a fixed pin. If this belay is occupied, it's possible to belay about 20' lower at another stance.
Variation: near the top of P2, take a right-angling wide crack up and back left, 5.8. Bring a big cam (#4 Camalot) to protect this line.
P1 & P2 can be combined with a 50m rope.
P3. 5.7, 50'. Climb up into a pod, then work up past a small roof (crux). Continue up the cracks to another sloping ledge. A #1 and #2 Camalot are useful for the belay anchor.
P1-3 can be combined with a 70m rope.
P4. 5.6, 100'. Traverse left to a short corner with a destroyed fixed pin. Continue traversing left on awkward, off-balance moves past another fixed pin (crux). Go all the way left to a hand crack and climb it to a corner. Don't start up too soon or you'll be off route on a harder variation. Climb the corner, then continue up and right on easy ramps to a belay stance below or just right of a chimney.
P5. Several options here:
a. Easy finish: 5.4, 60'. Climb the chimney to the top.
b. Fun finish: 5.8, 80'. Climb up a ramp right of the chimney to a huge corner with a wide crack. Climb up the face left of the corner to a fixed pin. Continue up the steep headwall and surmount a little roof at the top (crux). If you have a #3 and #4 Camalot, you can belay just above the roof (and watch/coach your second at the crux roof), otherwise continue up an easy gully and belay from a spike of rock at the top.
c. Grovel finish: 5.7, 80'. Climb the wide crack in the corner just right of the previous variation.
To descend: follow deep grooves to the south until you reach a dirt trail. Go 30' right (west) and then follow the marked Bastille descent trail north and down to the road at the base of the cliff.
(Ed. Note: beginner leaders--make sure you're solid on crack techique before trying this one. Placing gear is not trivial for the inexperienced.)
The climb is north facing and in the shade until mid-afternoon. As Jim Erickson said in his classic 1980 Rocky Heights guidebook, "avoid it like the plague if the weather is not warm, or you will shiver away much of its charm."
Start at the center of the north face of the Bastille, below a hand crack that starts 20' up the wall, with a huge, serrated flake to its right.
The first pitch has been the site of numerous accidents, so make sure you're solid on 5.7 crack climbing and placing pro before attempting to lead it.
P1. 5.7, 60'. Climb up to the flake and step left to the crack. Jam or layback up the polished crack (crux), then follow the crack up and left to a small stance at a 2-bolt anchor with chains. You can belay here (if you want to watch/coach your second through the crux), or continue with the second pitch.
P2. 5.6, 90'. Climb up to the chimney left of the bolts, and step left onto the face. Climb up to a finger crack, then traverse right above a little roof (crux). Continue up steep, enjoyable cracks and angle up left on easy ground to a sloping ledge by a steep wall. Belay at a crack with a fixed pin. If this belay is occupied, it's possible to belay about 20' lower at another stance.
Variation: near the top of P2, take a right-angling wide crack up and back left, 5.8. Bring a big cam (#4 Camalot) to protect this line.
P1 & P2 can be combined with a 50m rope.
P3. 5.7, 50'. Climb up into a pod, then work up past a small roof (crux). Continue up the cracks to another sloping ledge. A #1 and #2 Camalot are useful for the belay anchor.
P1-3 can be combined with a 70m rope.
P4. 5.6, 100'. Traverse left to a short corner with a destroyed fixed pin. Continue traversing left on awkward, off-balance moves past another fixed pin (crux). Go all the way left to a hand crack and climb it to a corner. Don't start up too soon or you'll be off route on a harder variation. Climb the corner, then continue up and right on easy ramps to a belay stance below or just right of a chimney.
P5. Several options here:
a. Easy finish: 5.4, 60'. Climb the chimney to the top.
b. Fun finish: 5.8, 80'. Climb up a ramp right of the chimney to a huge corner with a wide crack. Climb up the face left of the corner to a fixed pin. Continue up the steep headwall and surmount a little roof at the top (crux). If you have a #3 and #4 Camalot, you can belay just above the roof (and watch/coach your second at the crux roof), otherwise continue up an easy gully and belay from a spike of rock at the top.
c. Grovel finish: 5.7, 80'. Climb the wide crack in the corner just right of the previous variation.
To descend: follow deep grooves to the south until you reach a dirt trail. Go 30' right (west) and then follow the marked Bastille descent trail north and down to the road at the base of the cliff.
(Ed. Note: beginner leaders--make sure you're solid on crack techique before trying this one. Placing gear is not trivial for the inexperienced.)
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