Avg: 2.5 from 13 votes
|Type:||TR, 50 ft (15 m)|
|Page Views:||4,327 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Aug 20, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The blunt arete, pinched between the first pitch of the Bastille Crack and the [Northcutt] start holds an interesting line. The bottom of this is easier than it looks, being perhaps 5.10, as you move upwards the route gets harder, but most difficulties can be beaten at a grade no harder than mid 5.11 by using the holds on both sides of the arete and judiciously switching sides on it with the feet. A physical and insecure crux comes when you would least expect it, joining the Northcutt Start route just before [its] crux, perhaps 15 meters up the arete. This move is fingery and on poor feet, but goes surprisingly perhaps as low as 12b. Finish by completing the arete and face to the anchors.
I would say that I am surprised that this route sees no previous mention on this site. Then again, I had passed it by without attention for over a decade of climbing in Eldo.