Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Dudley Chelton and Duncan Ferguson
Page Views: 14,383 total · 52/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on May 27, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

We did this route instead of waiting for the The Bastille Crack to access Outer Space. Friends of mine were at Eldo last Memorial Day weekend and said it was dead. That was not the case this year. If the first pitch we did didn't have a semi-gully section, this route would get another star.

This route starts to the left of Werk Supp. The start is about even with the chain anchors on top of the pillar that people with one rope use for rappel #2 off the first pitch of Werk Supp. The first pitch (about 5.9) follows a thin crack after doing some face moves lower. Protection is better than it looks from the ground. Continue past the chain anchors, up some less than aesthetic climbing and belay on the ledge at the base of a thin layback crack. Ascend this crack to its end (10 foot, 8+/9-), move right a bit, and head up varied climbing to another belay ledge. From this ledge, head right to the crux thin, left leaning crack (10). The crux is well-protected. At the end of the crack, move up and right on a low angle, wide dihedral to join the The Bastille Crack. Finish via the last pitch of the The Bastille Crack or do the variation (8/9) like we did to the right.

The harder sections of this climb were high quality - the first 40 foot of P1, the first 20 foot of P2 and P3 were great. This climb was well worth doing. Once you do this climb, it can only be easier (10-), but why repeat a route when there is so much else to do?

Protection Suggest change

Bring a standard rack - #0 TCU/blue Alien up to a #3 Camalot will suffice.

Per Carl Sampurna: two-bolt anchor with rap rings at the top of P3.

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