Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Bastille - N Face

Bastille Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coach's Demise T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cross-country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crossfire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
DNF 5.10 variation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Derek-Tissima TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Direct North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Hairstyles and Attitudes T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Independent Study T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Interceptor T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lilliburlero T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Liquor Mart T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Madame Guillotine S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
March of Dimes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Marie Antoinette T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Model Citizen T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Nexus T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northcutt Start T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Northeast Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Northwest Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Outer Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Outer Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Prow Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Saturnalia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Shatek's Ramp-age T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Space Invaders T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Spice Tour, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Werk Supp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Country T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Wide Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
X-M T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Layton Kor, Steve Komito, 1961
Page Views: 37,389 total, 182/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


422 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is my favorite route on the Bastille. The last pitch is steep and one of the most spectacular pitches in Eldo.

Begin with the first pitch of the Bastille Crack to the belay below the 5.7 second pitch. From this belay, traverse right around a bulge to directly below an obvious, chalked dihedral. Do a sketchy .9+ move to get to a rest at the base of this dihedral. Next, clip a pin and climb the steep dihedral via stems and good jams (.10a), once at the top, traverse right on a ledge to a belay at the base of the crux undercling section. For the crux, place a good, small stopper before stepping off the ledge, and climb over dicey terrain to an undercling hold with a pin in it. Clip this pin, and use the undercling to move left around a corner (crux) and move up the crack system for 60 feet. This crack has many 5.9-5.9+ sections between good rests, the exposure on this pitch is incredible.

Follow the crack left to a short juggy wall and top out on the top of the Bastille.

Protection

Rossiter gives this route a runout rating. I found it to be pretty well protected and safe. Some small nuts can protect the move before the crux (where you clip a pin).

Photos

Michael LaDue
Boulder, CO
Michael LaDue   Boulder, CO
Incredible route! One of the best in the Front Range.

Comments:
-I placed a #4 on every pitch (including Bastille Crack).
-Definitely not R rated, maybe PG-13. Very standard pro for Eldo/Flatirons.
-Bomber #2 placement underneath initial "scary" traverse on the last pitch. Apr 10, 2017
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a/b
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a/b
Third pitch is basically a sport climb. Fixed pins abound! Only placed a red C3 on the traverse and a couple finger-sized pieces on some of the 5.9 sections before the juggy face. Great climbing nonetheless! Nov 16, 2016
seanmo63
  5.10
seanmo63  
  5.10
This route deserves all the hype it gets. First time up, we brought a single rack thinking it would be casual 5.10, and I used all my finger-sized cams early on the first pitch... made the crux dihedral very exciting climbing 15 feet above a small wire. The first time I ever got on this thing I ripped what my partner said was a super old and crucial RP fixed in the middle of the first crux of the first pitch. Sorry! First moves at the beginning of the second pitch are classic Eldo: if you do it right, it is laughably easy and if you do it wrong it is insecure and weirdly strenuous. Good on you if you can remember all of the beta from memory on the second pitch every time! I invariably have to climb up and down and up and down a couple times remembering the perfect way to do the several tricky sections of that final second pitch. Substitute Wide Country for the Bastille approach pitch with a bizarre intermediate leftward hand traverse in between (R-ish) for full value! Sep 29, 2016
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
  5.10b PG13
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
  5.10b PG13
Wonderful route!

I didn't find it R, maybe PG-13 going around the first bulge P1 traversing to the corner, and on the P2 upper hueco-ed runout to the top, but neither sections are near the crux 5.10b-ish grade. Pro seemed plentiful and solid otherwise.

Don't let your guard down after pulling through the P2 crux. It stays pretty continuous and has a couple more interesting cruxy bits on the upper headwall. Jun 10, 2015
Mark Oveson
Louisville, Colorado
  5.10b PG13
Mark Oveson   Louisville, Colorado
  5.10b PG13
Spectacular position and interesting climbing. The first pitch is insecure and sustained at 10a for a good 20-30 feet. I think the traditional "S" rating comes from this pitch, as you have to climb 8-10 feet above a small wired nut and risk a ledgefall. I followed both pitches, so take this in context, but to me the second pitch does seem to protect surprisingly well. Jun 24, 2014
Alan Doak
boulder, co
Alan Doak   boulder, co
It sounds like I was off-route on pitch one. I followed the chalk into the first corner with the ripped nut. I moved out onto the left face of the corner, using the thin finger rail, before crossing back right. It went, but it was harder than 9+, and I was a bit above my last piece by the time I was on top of the block. I'd be curious to hear what people rate it. Aug 12, 2013
Michael Butts
Boulder, Co
  5.10b PG13
Michael Butts   Boulder, Co
  5.10b PG13
CLASSIC! I have wanted to do this route since I moved to CO a couple of years ago. However, that R rating like many others has scared me away. This route definitely does not need an R rating. You can, and I did, staple the route up, hahaha! This fact does not take away from the exposure. The last pitch is amazingly exposed and awesome. I feel like the crux is short, but there is still some great moves to come to finish the route. I can't wait to run up this again, and I am psyched for anyone who has been scared off this thing to give it a shot. Great climbing. Jul 5, 2013
Andrew McLean
Colorado
  5.10b
Andrew McLean   Colorado
  5.10b
Believe the hype. It's all true. I thought the undercling move was money. Lots of gear at the crux. May 28, 2013
Tommey-James
Boulder,Colorado
  5.10b
Tommey-James   Boulder,Colorado
  5.10b
Super fun, super safe. Jul 5, 2011
Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
Mitch Musci   Estes Park, CO
For the P2 crux, there's no need to undercling high by the pin. Just stay lower on better hand holds. Jun 8, 2011
This route is junk. My partner and I did it this past weekend in near-freezing temps wearing shoes that Chinese-foot-binding specialists would have deemed torturous; we went without water, food, or warm clothing. To say it went easily would be an understatement, but frankly, a couple times my feet were so cold I could have sworn my name was Hugh Herr. All the beta is total crap. There is no exposure . . . no pumpy headwall . . . no airy traverse. There was some rather lackluster graffiti we noticed (LK who?), which I took the time to chip off and replace with a nice (and obviously more gratifying) "Eat Me" in bright orange spray paint. I always huff the orange stuff on routes. It just gets me there faster . . . . Apr 5, 2010
This is my favorite route to date! For anyone who loves exposure, you have to do this climb. Pitch 3 was AMAZING! Sep 27, 2009
Soraya Khalje
Aspen, co
 
Soraya Khalje   Aspen, co
 
Absolutely wonderful route! Just loved everything about it - every move is great. Jun 24, 2009
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
  5.10c
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
  5.10c
Definitely in Eldo's Top 10, no top five routes. Everything about it is great! Great gear, great positioning, vertical, comfortable belay ledges, exposure, and so on.... Jun 22, 2009
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10b
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10b
I agree with Tony both that the top and bottom pitches are about equivalent in difficulty, and that the gear placements do not warrant an S rating. I will say however that the gear on the P2 traverse is strenuous to place. I was only able to get a small nut and a yellow tcu before clipping the pin and giving it a go around the corner. Once I got around the corner, I was expecting the climb to let up a bit, but a number of 5.9 moves awaited me before I found a substantial rest stance. Great climb! Jun 19, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
A wonderful route as advertised. It protects *very* well.... and most definitely does NOT warrant an R rating. You can place gear anywhere you want it (perhaps with the exception of the last 30 feet up the huecos on P2, but the climbing is easy).

I thought P1 contained the crux, and the stemming felt about 10a/b (and a touch easier than Over The Hill). If there was a pin at the base of the stemming (in the chimney like alcove), it is gone now.... but a red alien fit nicely.

The P2 "crux" felt about 10a as well, but the entire second pitch is definitely a journey. I placed the EXACT gear Tony B lists above, and they are all bomber. There are plenty of rests up the final headwall, but the various moves are engaging and sometimes a bit tricky. I had pretty bad rope drag, despite judicious use of slings, so I'm not sure how I could have avoided it. The pitch is spectacular, but the rope drag is a big bummer.

A standard rack (nuts and two sets of cams from tiny to #3 camalot) is fine. Lots of slings.

Edit: I just looked at a photo and saw one of someone belaying under the "end" of the traverse, and that looks like the ticket to avoiding rope drag. My belay was towards the beginning of the traverse. YMMV May 20, 2009
Kirill Kireyev
Boulder, CO
  5.10c PG13
Kirill Kireyev   Boulder, CO
  5.10c PG13
The pin protecting the chimney section at the beginning of the final dihedral on P1 is gone (or at least I could've sworn it was there before). You can get in a #4 BD nut and a pink tricam (neither of which felt bomber) before taking off. Fortunately, you can get gear soon after.

The high traverse on P1 is significantly harder than going low and contains the (5.10c) crux move of the whole climb IMHO. May 5, 2009
patrick kadel
  5.10a PG13
patrick kadel  
  5.10a PG13
I climbed this today for the first time and have to agree with everyone that it is one of Eldo's best. I really don't climb S or R routes and the only reason I did was because of the comments here, so thanks everyone. I will agree the first pitch of Outer Space is the more difficult of the two. If I relate the dihedral to another classic, Over The Hill, the Outer Space dihedral is easier but still a handful and the exposure is no comparison. I am also comforted on OTH by all those pins...or is it discomforted on this one by the need to think a bit more. I'll chime a 10a.

Pitch 2 was relatively trivial, protects well, and is spectacular. I did not find a move harder than 5.9 on the pitch. With plenty of feet on the traverse and easy climbing around the corner I couldn't even tell where the crux was supposed to be. I thought it might have been a less secure leftward traverse near the end of the climb?

Overall, a fantastic climb with absolutely no R sections and plenty of rests if you want them. Sep 27, 2008
Shane Zentner
Colorado
 
Shane Zentner   Colorado
 
I protected the opening moves of the last pitch with a red Metolius Astro nut, a green Alien, then clipped the pin. The remaining pitch was incredible and steep with multiple 5.9+ sections. There is a small, sloping ledge about half way through the pitch that offers a chance to 'rest', though I found it difficult to rest there. The exposure, steepness, and awesome views of the canyon took my breath away. Aug 16, 2008
Shawn Mitchell
Broomfield
Shawn Mitchell   Broomfield
Followed Shane Zentner today. Agree it's superb; agree the 1st pitch is trickier than the 2nd. But I think the 2nd still is the harder of the two and the crux was the marathon after the undercling/corner, which only felt about 10(a). The miles of 9+ pack a 10b/c pump factor, IMO. Good lead, Shane!

One other thought: On approach, it's not hard to stretch the Bastille pitches across the traverse, past the little pillar, and belay directly under the dihedral. You can sling a couple flakes and get some small gear at the belay. Aug 9, 2008
SCherry
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
Climbed this route in the afternoon on 9/23 for the 2nd time. The pin is indeed missing from the start of the corner on the first pitch. I was surprised to not find in there as I had remembered being able to clip it from the no-hands, shoulder-bar rest. I am only 5'8" and was able to reach high and place a great wire to protect the crux move getting established in the corner. No need to replace the pin in my opinion. Sep 24, 2007
Stefan Griebel
Boulder, Colorado
  5.10
Stefan Griebel   Boulder, Colorado
  5.10
I climbed Outer Space again on 9/15. I hadn't seen the above comment regarding the pin, so I was surprised when it wasn't there. I was able to place a good nut AND a good yellow Alien within a foot of each other where the pin used to be, so I don't think it need to be replaced. I will bring this up with the Eldo FHRC. Sep 18, 2007
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.10b/c
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.10b/c
Alright, I have to admit to it and fess up. I pulled the first piton thru the crux dihedral on the first pitch. How one might ask? I would love to tell a story of some great whip I took on this piton but actually, (sigh), I fell following this pitch mantling onto the sloping ledge off that horrible rail that looks great. Yes, shameful I know. I didn't play around with it, but I think you can get a small Alien where the piton once was. Thanks to John for hauling me up this beauty and making it look casual. Aug 11, 2007
TBlom  
Not 10c, not runout but very good and worth checking it out, maybe 10a/b. Nov 11, 2006
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c
Such a sweet route! I don't consider myself a solid 10c climber and pulled this clean on lead after following it once. Not runout. If you are even close to the grade, Do This Route! Aug 18, 2006
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
I climbed this last night for the 3rd time and just wanted to add a more recent comment. Like everyone has said, what a great route.

p1 - Bastille Crack to ledge
p2 - Chalked-up dihedral. There are three pins you can clip in this dihedral. 2 seemed bomber to me and the other one was decent. The hard part is getting situated in the dihedral. Once in the dihedral you can stem your way up using little hands.
p3- Like everyone else has said, this is not run out at all. After pulling the 10c move, the upper part is pumpy and tricky. Counting the pin at the crux, there are three pins on this pitch as well. Only the last one looked like it belonged in the Eldo hall of fame. Jun 30, 2006
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
  5.10c
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
  5.10c
Stellar route! Followed 2 & 3 today and found it to be every bit as good as advertised. On P2 the first hard move up and over the blocky prow is made easier using the overhead rail as the crack up and over peters out. This rail is slopey in the middle, but pretty good low and higher up...there is a fixed stopper at the top of the crack. The next hard move for me was out from under a pod like stance at the start of the dihedral below the pin, using bomber underclings and the crack out on the left face to begin the business of stemming. This move is 10b and leads to sinker fingers above and good holds up high to the ramp.

Suppose if you don't like big exposure the start of P3 might scare you, but the holds are not too bad working up & over to the undercling crux move. Mostly smearing for the feet here, there are a few small edges, and a pretty good jug around the corner to start the business on this pitch. Pretty sustained (9) moves, with lots of exposure, bring you to a tricky, somewhat greasy, (8+) move up and left past the last pin. Juggy huecos to the top ended my new favorite climb on the Bastille. Oct 1, 2005
Brian Ladd
Bend, Oregon
 
Brian Ladd   Bend, Oregon
 
I just thought I would throw out the suggestion to start with the Northcutt start and it makes for three great .10 pitches in a row. Sep 2, 2005
Such a good route. Great after work elevetion gain. S rating is really pretty mild. Aug 31, 2004
I've heard that when this and a lot of other Eldo "S" routes were put up, Aliens and small nuts had not yet been invented, hence the rating. I agree the crux of the 1st pitch felt harder than the second. Of course I lead P1 and got a ride on P2. For me, the crux on P2 was getting into the undercling, once you are there,pulling around the corner was no problem. The pitch is definitely not over though with several 5.9 moves left but all well protected with good feet everywhere. Enjoy. Best route I've done in Eldo!!! Aug 31, 2004
GEAR beta: On the headwall pitch, bring a Yellow Camalot for the start of the traverse off the belay ledge. You can reach way up and right to plug in the yellow camalot before beginning the traverse section. Also on the headwall pitch, bring lots (10 to 12) of extra runners to minimize rope drag.

Finally, be SURE to look down at the Bastille Crack as soon as you finish the opening traverse. It looks like a sidewalk, and makes the whole adventure fun. Oct 4, 2003
I followed this climb for the 2nd time yesterday and was reminded of how beautiful the line truly is. The 1st pitch has wonderful stemming and finger locks and a very spicy second pitch with great exposure!One of my favorite in the canyon. Jun 18, 2003
There's also a billion Lowe-ball placements if you've got 'em, like every route in Eldo. There are precious few "real" runouts left in Eldo with modern gear. May 8, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Just climbed this line again (4th time) after 3 years away from it. For the "s" pitch I placed a pretty solid #4 BD stopper just before leaving the belay (while still standing on the ledge). After 2 moves I put in a PERFECT green Alien up and right a few feet from the stopper. 2 moves later there was a yellow alien placement staring me in the face in a left hand sidepull... then the #8 stopper to the left, then up to the TCU placement beside the pin and the pin. Then around the corner to tons of gear opportunity. In short, the climb is not S at all, unless S stands for "S"ewn-up. As for the difficulty, I too find the dihedral pitch more technical than the upper pitch and would give both 10a/b. Staying low on the upper pitch is the key, reaching the undercling by the pin from below instead of traversing over to it. May 8, 2003
A fantastic route!! Definitely three stars! As mentioned above, I could not see how it got an S rating. The climb, and the crux, eats up stoppers. Even the somewhat dubious looking fixed pin at the crux (pounded straight up into a slightly flaring crack) could be backed up with a large tcu, although I'm sure that pin has held its share of falls. As for the short bulge that can be avoided on the first pitch, I would be curious to know whether it was on the original line of ascent or not. It offers another short section of technical 5.10- moves, is well protected and fun, but can be easily avoided by climbing down and around it.

Booty/Fixed Gear Alert! One of the stoppers just before the crux on the second (10c) pitch, was so good that my partner was unable to clean it. He could get the nut to move in the crack, but couldn't get it out of the rock. He said his last attempt to free it left it pointing upwards, but believed if a leader clipped a draw on it and tugged downwards, it would seat well into its original position. I hope that it is removable or at least becomes a good fixed piece. If someone posts that it is neither, I will go back up on a fixed line and see if I can get it out so that it doesn't detract from this classic line. Sep 25, 2002
Great route! I too struggled with rope drag at the top of the last pitch even though I put long runners on everything below the roof. When I got home I looked in my old Erickson guidebook and he splits the last pitch into two, adding a belay after the roof undercling and initial steep flake (40' off ledge.) Next time I do the route I'll try it this way. Jun 12, 2002
This route is absolutely excellent. I recommend it to anyone interested in getting some big air out under your feet. I agree with everyone else's comments that the first pitch of Outer Space is tougher than the the second. That dihedral is definitely more technical and devious than the one hard move to clip the pin in the undercling on the airy final pitch. Also, I second that motion to go around toward the right on the mini-pillar from the belay atop the first pitch of the Bastille Crack instead of trying to go up and over it. This is one of the best I've done so far (which isn't saying much but), launch yourself into Outer Space! The cracks and huecos toward the very top are so fun! Take care for rope drag as you are topping out. May 6, 2002
Be careful not to go up the thin crack on the first Outer Space pitch to get into the dihedral. There is/was a ripped wired nut in this crack. Stay right and do a blind traverse to get into the dihedral. The last pitch is airy, well-protected (small alliens, nuts) and perhaps even a little easier then other Eldo 10c's. Dec 31, 2001
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
I led the whole thing barefoot many years ago, does that mean I'm a real stud? Anyway, the picture actually shows the upper part of Wide Country to the right of the dihedral. Oct 15, 2001
Linking these two pitches with the first three of X-M makes an excellent and airy route. With three pitches at 10c and two at 10b, and four of them with s or vs grades, it makes for an aesthetic and rewarding line straight up the middle of the Bastille. Jul 23, 2001
The final pitch is most definitely NOT S. I place three good nuts before clipping the pin in the undercling. And thinking the S section might be coming later I sewed up the rest of the route.

I also believe the first pitch (10b) to be more technical than the last pitch (rated 10c). The last pitch is long and somewhat pumpy, but probably more like 10a/b than 10c. May 30, 2001
I found the crux pitch to be easier than the dihedral. Knock off about 3 letter grades if you're tall. Jan 1, 2001
This route is [unbelievable]. It is [definitely] the best route I have climbed at Eldo. [Rossiter's] book gives it and "s" rating, and this can be interpreted as "a 15 foot traverse to the left, that if [your] pro pulled during a fall, or while trying to clip the pin, would [deposit] you [...10 feet up?] onto a ledge." This one gets an "s" for the same reason Rosy Crucifixion does, a fall at the beginning might be interesting. I just wanted to clarify this [because] you never know. If you have looked at this route all spring, like I have, and not gone up and done it yet, go for it, its not too dangerous. The airy positions are killer, too. Jan 1, 2001