Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Layton Kor, Steve Komito, 1961
Page Views: 58,613 total · 206/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is my favorite route on the Bastille. The last pitch is steep and one of the most spectacular pitches in Eldo.

Begin with the first pitch of the Bastille Crack to the belay below the 5.7 third pitch. From this belay, traverse right around a bulge to directly below an obvious, chalked dihedral. Do a sketchy .9+ move to get to a rest at the base of this dihedral. Next, clip a pin and climb the steep dihedral via stems and good jams (.10a), once at the top, traverse right on a ledge to a belay at the base of the crux undercling section. For the crux, place a good, small stopper before stepping off the ledge, and climb over dicey terrain to an undercling hold with a pin in it. Clip this pin, and use the undercling to move left around a corner (crux) and move up the crack system for 60 feet. This crack has many 5.9-5.9+ sections between good rests, the exposure on this pitch is incredible.

Follow the crack left to a short juggy wall and top out on the top of the Bastille.

Protection Suggest change

Rossiter gives this route a runout rating. I found it to be pretty well protected and safe. Some small nuts can protect the move before the crux (where you clip a pin).