Avg: 3.9 from 514 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Layton Kor, Steve Komito, 1961|
|Page Views:||46,754 total · 201/month|
|Shared By:||Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Begin with the first pitch of the Bastille Crack to the belay below the 5.7 second pitch. From this belay, traverse right around a bulge to directly below an obvious, chalked dihedral. Do a sketchy .9+ move to get to a rest at the base of this dihedral. Next, clip a pin and climb the steep dihedral via stems and good jams (.10a), once at the top, traverse right on a ledge to a belay at the base of the crux undercling section. For the crux, place a good, small stopper before stepping off the ledge, and climb over dicey terrain to an undercling hold with a pin in it. Clip this pin, and use the undercling to move left around a corner (crux) and move up the crack system for 60 feet. This crack has many 5.9-5.9+ sections between good rests, the exposure on this pitch is incredible.
Follow the crack left to a short juggy wall and top out on the top of the Bastille.