Type: |
Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
Fixed Hardware
(1) |
FA: | Jim McMillan, Larry Bruce 1968 (5.8 A4). FFA: Ed Webster, Steve Mammen, Scott Woodruff, Brad Gilbert, 1975. |
Page Views: | 2,286 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Scott Bennett on Sep 21, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This an odd, but very worthy, route on the left side of the North Face of the Bastille. I will describe the pitch the way we did it, joining the tail-end of Madame Guillotine.
Apparently you could continue further right, joining the Bastille Crack earlier and skipping the 11a section on MG, which would probably keep the pitch at 5.10. This would avoid what I thought to be the best climbing, though.
Start up Werk Supp, and follow that route for ~50'. Look for the prominent, undercling flake shooting up and right. Climb delicately out this flake with frequent and good cams (finger to thin-hands size), 5.10. After the flake ends, move right onto a subtle ledge system.
Here, one can apparently traverse into the Bastille Crack (?) or continue straight up past a bolt. You have now joined the upper part of Madame Guillotine. Continue past two more bolts (thin, balance-y crux, 5.11a), and then head up the easy face to join Bastille Crack at its second belay (fixed pin, 1-2" cams).
Both Rossiter's and Levin's guidebooks give this an "R" rating, but I can't see why. Great gear can be had the whole way. Maybe the R is a holdover from before MG was bolted and those bolts were added?
Either way, Nexus is a worthy outing for those who think they've climbed "everything" on the Bastille. It's enjoyable, well-protected easy 5.11 climbing on good (if a bit dirty) rock with great pro.
After joining the Bastille Crack, you have many options. There are no fixed anchors, and you're 140' feet up.
You could traverse down and left to the anchor on Werk Supp and make two single rope rappels down that route.
You could also continue up the Bastille Crack, or traverse further right to finish up Outer Space.
Apparently you could continue further right, joining the Bastille Crack earlier and skipping the 11a section on MG, which would probably keep the pitch at 5.10. This would avoid what I thought to be the best climbing, though.
Start up Werk Supp, and follow that route for ~50'. Look for the prominent, undercling flake shooting up and right. Climb delicately out this flake with frequent and good cams (finger to thin-hands size), 5.10. After the flake ends, move right onto a subtle ledge system.
Here, one can apparently traverse into the Bastille Crack (?) or continue straight up past a bolt. You have now joined the upper part of Madame Guillotine. Continue past two more bolts (thin, balance-y crux, 5.11a), and then head up the easy face to join Bastille Crack at its second belay (fixed pin, 1-2" cams).
Both Rossiter's and Levin's guidebooks give this an "R" rating, but I can't see why. Great gear can be had the whole way. Maybe the R is a holdover from before MG was bolted and those bolts were added?
Either way, Nexus is a worthy outing for those who think they've climbed "everything" on the Bastille. It's enjoyable, well-protected easy 5.11 climbing on good (if a bit dirty) rock with great pro.
After joining the Bastille Crack, you have many options. There are no fixed anchors, and you're 140' feet up.
You could traverse down and left to the anchor on Werk Supp and make two single rope rappels down that route.
You could also continue up the Bastille Crack, or traverse further right to finish up Outer Space.
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