Avg: 2 from 6 votes
Trad, 140 ft
|FA:||Jim McMillan, Larry Bruce 1968 (5.8 A4). FFA: Ed Webster, Steve Mammen, Scott Woodruff, Brad Gilbert, 1975.|
|Page Views:||1,521 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Scott Bennett on Sep 21, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
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Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Apparently you could continue further right, joining the Bastille Crack earlier and skipping the 11a section on MG, which would probably keep the pitch at 5.10. This would avoid what I thought to be the best climbing, though.
Start up Werk Supp, and follow that route for ~50'. Look for the prominent, undercling flake shooting up and right. Climb delicately out this flake with frequent and good cams (finger to thin-hands size), 5.10. After the flake ends, move right onto a subtle ledge system.
Here, one can apparently traverse into the Bastille Crack (?) or continue straight up past a bolt. You have now joined the upper part of Madame Guillotine. Continue past two more bolts (thin, balance-y crux, 5.11a), and then head up the easy face to join Bastille Crack at its second belay (fixed pin, 1-2" cams).
Both Rossiter's and Levin's guidebooks give this an "R" rating, but I can't see why. Great gear can be had the whole way. Maybe the R is a holdover from before MG was bolted and those bolts were added?
Either way, Nexus is a worthy outing for those who think they've climbed "everything" on the Bastille. It's enjoyable, well-protected easy 5.11 climbing on good (if a bit dirty) rock with great pro.
After joining the Bastille Crack, you have many options. There are no fixed anchors, and you're 140' feet up.
You could traverse down and left to the anchor on Werk Supp and make two single rope rappels down that route.
You could also continue up the Bastille Crack, or traverse further right to finish up Outer Space.