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Routes in The Bastille - N Face

Bastille Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coach's Demise T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cross-country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crossfire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
DNF 5.10 variation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Derek-Tissima TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Direct North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Hairstyles and Attitudes T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Independent Study T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Interceptor T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lilliburlero T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Liquor Mart T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Madame Guillotine S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
March of Dimes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Marie Antoinette T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Model Citizen T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Nexus T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northcutt Start T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Northeast Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Northwest Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Outer Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Outer Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Prow Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Saturnalia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Shatek's Ramp-age T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Space Invaders T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Spice Tour, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Werk Supp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Country T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Wide Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
X-M T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II Fixed Hardware (3)
FA: FA: Pat Ament, Rick Warsfield FFA: Pat Ament, Dave Rearick,
Page Views: 25,699 total, 127/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Apr 25, 2001 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The only reason I give this 3 stars is because the line is disjunct and it doesn't really go anywhere. However the climbing is excellent, certainly as good as many other 4 star routes. The route starts near the NE corner of the Bastille, right off the road and about 50 feet east of the Bastille Crack. Walk just past the first steep buttress (March of Dimes Buttress--about 50 feet high) that lies on the road, 100 yards or so west of the parking lot. The route starts just right of a 40 foot, large rotten dihedral formed by the west edge of March of Dimes Buttress.

P1. Climb up flakes either on the right or the left for 25 feet, and then lieback another shallow flake to a stance 50 feet up. Follow a beautiful thin crack that jogs gently back and forth, sometimes taking the appearance of a shallow dihedral. Belay from bolts on a sloping ledge about 110 feet up. I recommend stepping left to the ledge 5 feet or so before the crack ends (especially if your second isn't solid--the bolts are not on top of the crack), (5.8+).

P2. Traverse 15 feet left across the ledge to an obvious, right leaning crack/slot (moving the belay if desired). Climb that for 50 feet (crux, with perfect hand-jamming and awkward feet). Belay on another large ledge. Above is the beautiful 5.10c finger crack of March of Dimes; climb that, or traverse off east. Be very careful on the descent; we got cliffed and ended up rappelling from a tree. Possibly go quite a ways east.

Note: many people do just the fantastic first pitch. From the anchor at the top of P1, you can rap to the ground with a 70 meter rope. With a 60, you'll have to do a little downclimbing, which could be a little sketchy. With a 60 (or if you're a real stick in the mud stuck with a 50!) you can rap climber's left to the top of the first pitch of March of Dimes and then again from there to the ground. Be aware of parties climbing up, if you rap directly down the route--this is a very popular single pitch, and, if you rap left of the route, be aware of, and stay out of, the loose chimney/gully between Werk Supp and the March of Dimes buttress.

Protection

Rossiter suggests up to a #4 Friend, but the whole climb seemed well protected with nothing larger than a #3 (but bring at least 2 of those, and 2 # 2.5). You could conceivably place a number 4 at the bottom of the crux pitch. Bring lots of small gear for the first pitch.
Kyle P  
Thanks, Gregger for the chains, much appreciated. Just a short PSA in regard to rappelling Werk Supp: if rapping the route with a 70m rope or double ropes from the top of pitch 1 (i.e. in one rap), please be sure to rap directly over the top of the March of Dimes buttress. You will rap directly over the chains on top of pitch 1 of MoD. Do NOT descend via the gully between MoD and Werk Supp. That gully is stacked with large, loose boulders. When dislodged, those boulders will find their way to the base of Werk Supp (where there is often a belayer) and/or into the road. We were unfortunate enough to be at the base when a climber chose the loose gully and kicked loose a microwave size block, which triggered several other large rocks to tumble down to the road. No one was hurt, but it was a good reminder: 1) to always wear a helmet everywhere in eldo 2) that even 2 minutes from the car, there are loose rocks on routes/raps that see enormous traffic. Please stay out of that gully!

Kyle Jun 8, 2015
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
 
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
 
Replaced the Werk Supp anchor early this morning. It had 3/8" x 3" carbon stud bolts that were getting rusty. Now it has 1/2" x 4.75" SS 5-piece bolts with SS hangers. I put the old chains back on, but plan to upgrade those to SS also soon. Jun 14, 2014
Fehim Hasecic
Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Fehim Hasecic   Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Excellent route! Did the second pitch on the second time, had to come back and give it another go, well worth it! No need for cams bigger then Camalot #3 on second pitch, first pitch ate small gear like crazy. Jun 13, 2014
The Blueprint Part Dank
FEMA Region VIII
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
P2 is a little slice of Vedauwoo in Eldo, super rad hand jams all the way, some big, some small, I think the crux could be almost anywhere on the route depending on your hand size. Apr 9, 2014
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
As per the above: to rap to the ground from there, yes, you need a 70m.
However, you can rap the route with a 50m if you go to the station to climber's left on top of the March Of Dimes pillar as described in the topos and this route description. Apr 7, 2014
B. Smith
Denver, CO
  5.9+
B. Smith   Denver, CO
  5.9+
I did just the first pitch today as a last climb before heading home. I loved the climbing! I wish I had brought more small gear (BD #0-0.2) as the finger crack at the top of the climb was more challenging with just placing nuts. I used up my smaller gear lower on the climb. Although a #4 is not necessary, I did place one toward the bottom of the climb.

I rapped from the bolts using a 70 meter rope and got to the ground with very little to spare. You NEED a 70m to do this! Apr 6, 2014
Carl Dixon
Boulder
 
Carl Dixon   Boulder
 
P2 was my first Eldo 5.9 lead. Onsight. Nice hand jams but tricky insecure feet and positioning.

Stay high on the walk of to the east. We almost got lured down too soon. May 15, 2013
On March 25, 2012, we apparently left a red Alien on or at the bottom of the first pitch of Werk Supp. Reward and good karma for its safe return! Email jyatesatwork@yahoo.com. Mar 26, 2012
Benten
Denver
Benten   Denver
Grade II? Someone want to explain? Oct 28, 2011
pfwein
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
pfwein   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
About the rating:
Pat Ament, Rossiter, and Levin's guides all give P2 a 9+ (Ament did the FA).
To the extent that any climb actually has a rating, Werk Supp does, and it's 9+, not 9.
If it feels easier than 9+, congratulations, you're climbing well. Jul 25, 2010
Ron Kauer
Lewiston, Idaho
Ron Kauer   Lewiston, Idaho
The first time I did this route was in 1979, back then I could not afford cams. Didn't trust them either, they were new and looked unreliable. Hey, I was climbing trad, my shoes were PAs if anybody remembers them.
P1 was wonderful, sustianed but not too difficult. P2 was a bit more commited. I was able to get a #8 hex in at the "slot". I did not trust it but continued on anyway. Ten feet above it I peeled! Falling head over heels backwards, chalk raining down like snow. My belayer held me two feet above the belay ledge!
The #8 hex held!! I could not believe it! So I smoked a ciggarette to calm the nerves and made it on my second try. I love that climb! May 8, 2010
Andrew McLean
Colorado
  5.9+
Andrew McLean   Colorado
  5.9+
Thanks, David. That's all I needed to go fire it up this morning. I led both pitches. I was able to get some "okay" gear in before the pin. The pin is not really needed, but I clipped it anyway. Super fun and intricate moves in the finger crack.

I ended up peeling off on P2 after pulling out of the funky pod half way up the pitch. Then finished it off clean. I would recommend 2 #1 Camalots for the P2 hand crack. Also bring a #2, a #3 and leave the #4 at home (or use it for the P2 belay).

What a classic route! Get on it if you have not yet :)

Drew Apr 14, 2010
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.9+
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.9+
Drew, in my experience (have led pitch 1 3 times that I can think of), I've found the climbing up to the finger crack to be much easier than the rest of the route, maybe 5.7, climbing is on big holds. Much of the initial section is expando rock and some people might not bother to place gear but there are some decent possibilities. I seem to remember a good pin or 2 that also inspired some confidence. The pro at the crux is bomber and I don't feel the R rating is warranted. Just my 2 cents though. Apr 13, 2010
Andrew McLean
Colorado
  5.9+
Andrew McLean   Colorado
  5.9+
Beta question for P1.

Whenever I see people leading this, their first piece appears to be about 20-25 feet above the ground. Why? Is there no gear before then? Is the rock just not worth placing gear in? If so, then what would you rate the difficulty of the first section of the climb before the finger crack. Despite the fact there is no "R" rating on this climb, I am leary to lead it because I am not a fan of routes that have no pro near the ground. Although that is a common characteristic for Eldo routes :-).

Any thoughts would be welcome.

Regards,

Drew Apr 13, 2010
Nathan McBride
Boulder
Nathan McBride   Boulder
If anyone finds the black shades I left at the base of the climb (6pm Saturday, Oct. 16th), can I offer you a 6-pack of refreshments? Oct 17, 2009
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
I just don't know. I floated the crux pitch of Handcracker Direct, which is supposedly a 5.10a handcrack. Then I jump on the second pitch of this, a 5.9ish hand crack. Which one should be harder? I guess I really suck at crack climbing....sometimes. Sep 26, 2009
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
I just did pitch 1 for an end of the day climb and found it to be fantastic and varied. I was in the midst of it, 90 feet up, and remembered why I love rock climbing so much. It is thoughtful, balancy, and simply sweet! Or maybe I just love finger cracks. Eats up nut placements. Aug 15, 2009
Phil Persson
Denver, Colorado
Phil Persson   Denver, Colorado
Fantastic; in all honestly the first pitch my be my favorite trad line anywhere; fantastic, varied, and sustained climbing makes this a classic moderate. Just when things start to feel a little hairy one of the magic "wrap your hand around" flakes of a bomber finger jam appears. Eat's TCUs and C3s for breakfast. We found with a 70m rope and some rope management [read: long slings] you can get to the top of the Bastille via the end of Bastille Crack from the Werk Supp PI anchors in one pitch, which makes for a great afternoon jaunt if time is scarce. Sep 28, 2008
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
I followed pitch one and I thought it was quite interesting and somewhat typical Eldo style with traversing and steep face with the occasional crack feature for gear and what not. Pretty sporty; sustained and a bit bold, I don't think I would have enjoyed to lead it.

P2. Was mine and I was a bit nervous with anticipation of the awkward looking crack but also eager to get on it and learn something. I got up and placed 2 cams and got pretty pumped trying to see how to get up the akward section onto the stance in the first pod, I came off and grabbed a cam to keep from decking as my belayer was back at the chains of pitch 1 and there would have been a bit of rope stretch.

I lowered to the ground and started again after looking it over a bit. I got into the first rest stance in the pod and got some more gear, and kept working the hands/ wide hands crack through the pods getting gear and an awkward rest occasionally. I plugged a #1 near what seemed the crux and ran it out to the ledge with the tree on the far side.

Both I and my partner found this to be stout for the grade and definitely sustained for the short pitch it was. The thing seems to want to spit you out the whole time, and there isn't much out side of the crack to keep you in so you just have to work the jambs, keep moving and keep an eye out for holds on either side of the crack when the going gets rough.

We took MOD for the third pitch and both had some trouble with it seems stout to me, bout as hard as Northcutt Start on BC for sure IMO. We continued up the OW directly above and over to the last pitch of BC, good fun! Pretty sure I used my 3.5 and #4 on p2. and my partner wanted the #4 on the OW above the finger crack on MOD. Jun 30, 2008
Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
 
Eric Goltz   Boulder, CO
 
This would be a **** route if there was some kind of fixed anchor either atop the 10c March o' Dimes pitch, or above p2 of Werksupp. Summitting above here takes a lot of time and walking, the "East Face" isn't fun to descend either. Apr 25, 2008
Jim Amidon  
 
**** 4 stars all the way.....how could anyone rate this 2 stars. Feb 2, 2008
max seigal
boulder
 
max seigal   boulder
 
If you're going to do the first pitch, then you have to do the second. That's where all the excitement is! Getting swallowed up by that fat crack is great! Jun 30, 2007
Danny
  5.9
Danny  
  5.9
This is a great climb and well worth doing. Pitch one and two could not be more different. Pitch one is thoughtful and balence-oriented while pitch two is deep-set slammer hands. For what it's worth, P2 [reminded] me of [Pool of Blood]. For the walk-off: head east down a ramp system, you'll see a tree with slings-don't go there, instead climb up a short corner and then down a very easy ramp to the talus. Sep 12, 2005
My .02 cents - p1 is great fun, a perfect challenge for anyone comfortable on 5.8ish routes. Several thought provoking sections between good stances. I was glad to have lots of small gear, I used all of it. First 30' or so has kinda sketchy pro, after that it's solid. May 6, 2005
Named by Ament because the climb works up (i.e. wers up) in difficulty the higher you go. Find an old copy of High Over Boulder to read Pat's comments. Apr 29, 2005
Jason Shatek
  5.8+
Jason Shatek  
  5.8+
Does any one know what "[Werk Supp]" means or if its a different language? In my German to English dictionary (werk = action) and (Suppe = soup broth)....."action broth"? Apr 28, 2005
Larry, I think the ramp from the top of P1 on Werk Supp to the P2/P3 pitch of the Bastille Crack goes at 5.8ish if you stay to the left its 5.6ish with crappy pro if you go to the right its 5.8ish with better pro and an old pin at the crux; I think the route is called "Shatek's Ramp-age." Apr 26, 2005
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Since a rappel on a 60m rope will get you down within 10 feet of the ground with stretch, it's obviously not at 140-150 ft. pitch. I'd put it closer to 105 ft. Vertical distances are usually overestimated. Apr 13, 2005
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
 
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
 
Larry,

I've done this a few times and it links up fine. There is one tricky and awkward 5.8ish spot with poor pro (an old pin, I think) and quite a bit of loose rock but it goes...

The second pitch of WS gears up very well and is short. Go for it... when you're ready... Jan 1, 2005
Sure. From the top of WS pitch one (the lovely finger crack), cruise easily up the ramp to the right and enter a short but awkward dihedral (5.6; may be a fixed pin here). You will arrive at the belay on top of BC pitch 3. Jan 1, 2005
Jason Shatek
  5.8+
Jason Shatek  
  5.8+
Climbed P1 today -- I thought the 5.8+ rating was right on. Beautiful sustained climbing with plenty of gear placement opportunities. We took 2 full sets of aliens and I used everyone along with 13 runners and various other pieces. Big gear is good to use in the first 30 feet but not a requirement. Also, a 60m rope for rappel gets you to about 10 feet off the ground to an easy down climb. I placed a perfect red Alien right in the crux but also found that I needed that hand hold. Next time I would use a stopper or something. Great route! Dec 31, 2004
Kevin Currigan
Lakewood
  5.9
Kevin Currigan   Lakewood
  5.9
I vote (it's that time of year) for 5.9 on the second pitch. It's short but good stances to place pro above the offwidth are not there, and the climbing is sustained. Oct 5, 2004
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
I agree with Tim. Stellar first pitch! No approach, great climbing with sweet finger locks, and a quick rap off. Sep 29, 2004
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
I got to lead P1 for the first time today and found it to be exceptionally good. I ran out of the right size nuts towards the top. I can't honestly say what else could make this pitch better! It certainly deserves 3 stars. Sep 8, 2004
Shane Zentner
Colorado
 
Shane Zentner   Colorado
 
I recently climbed Werk Supp again. This time around I used left hand crimpers on the face and jammed with my right hand in the crack (laybacking will make you barndoor). Look for the rail near top left of the crack. Led the last pitch of March of Dimes from here-medium stopper, blue Alien, green Alien, blue Metolius. Jul 22, 2004
tim naylor
  5.9-
tim naylor  
  5.9-
Great moves until getting to bolt anchor (following) loose flakes and a little polished for first 40' or so. May 10, 2004
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
  5.9
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
  5.9
Goodness...Concerning the gear on this route, I recommended WAY too much. Doubling cams from green Aliens-2" is insane considering the weight you're carrying. Remember that I set enough gear for AID. This is when double ropes are recommended, NOT for a free ascent. This is not an Indian Creek varying crack, so don't gear up for that. Just bring a standard Eldo rack (but include some small cams and hexes. They will help). Thanks Leo. ~Wm Nov 12, 2003
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
  5.9
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
  5.9
Trail another rope or use it for double rope gear (better idea) and you can rap to the ground from the chains ten feet east of the ledge you end up on after pitch one.

Was going to aid this today but we had a nice break in the cold snap and it went On Sight free on lead. I placed enough gear for aid (double ropes) should my girlfriend need it, but she toughed it out. REALLY classic first pitch. I'd do this three or four times a year for a quick run up a fun yet challenging route, especially if the Bast. Crack is a traffic jam. Easy climbing lets you top off the beast after pitch one anyway...

For gear, double up on nuts #7-9, double green Aliens-2" cams. For an anchor on a direct line with the first pitch, bring a pink tri-cam #9 BD stopper, and appropriate cams. You can set up an equalized anchor in the wide finger slot just after the cruxy overhang with accompanying finger-tip crack. If you're bailing after this, belay down to the chains and rap directly to the base. OR simul the rest of the broken ramp to top out the rock quickly.

Can't wait for the warm weather!~Wm Nov 8, 2003
David Conlin  
 
I led this route and finished with March of Dimes yesterday. All 3 pitches are stellar, in my opinion.

P1: sustained 8+, very enjoyable, a little runout after the first piece. Bring plenty of small-medium cams (i.e. 0.2-0.75 Camalot equivs.) and larger nuts. Definitely belay from below P2, rather than at the bolt anchor.

P2: I loved this pitch and felt more secure on it than on P1. I don't know what the + is doing in the rating. Maybe it is hand-size dependent, but I didn't find this particularly hard, and it is short. There are good feet on the right face and in the crack and the hand jams are bomber. I would say 5.9, no plus. It is easy to continue onto March of Dimes without stopping for a belay, although this may have been my downfall (I fell on the 10c crux) as I was kind of pumped after the first two pitches. May have benifitted from a rest before tackling MoD. Gear: I placed Camalots 4, 0.5, 3, 2, 1 BUT I think a 4 is unnecessary and a 3 would have been better in that placement.

P3: (March of Dimes) Hard, for me anyway. Tricky feet and crimpy hands up high. Used small nuts and Yellow and Green aliens (equiv. to BD 0.3, 0.2 I think), the latter of which held multiple lead falls before I figured out the sequence. My partner, Mike Flanagan flashed it though. The belay atop is weird. Sling a root, good BD #2, poor BD#3 (would have been better with bigger cam). Oct 23, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
Pitch 1 has got to be my favorite 5.8 pitch in the whole canyon. Climbed it at lunch today and we were the only climbers on the Bastille.

If this isn't 4 stars, I'm not sure what is! Sep 11, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
Small cams will sew this up...good stems, jams, and laybacks on P1. Pretty sustained for (8) climbing...thoughtful moves in a few setions, but its all there. A great, long, worthy first pitch...looking forward to continuing up P2 in the near future. Jul 24, 2003
The second pitch, although shorter, is much sweeter than the first...very physical hand jamming, don't rappel after the first pitch!! Crack climbers will eat this pitch alive. Jul 17, 2003
Shane Zentner
Colorado
 
Shane Zentner   Colorado
 
I didn't place anything bigger than a #3 Camalot near the crux(the offwidth is too flared for anything bigger.) Solid at the grade and burly. Laybacking caused me to barndoor and fall several times. Maybe a combination of jamming and laybacking would work. Well worth the effort and fun to do. Jul 7, 2003
Dr. Dan
Steamboat Springs, CO
Dr. Dan   Steamboat Springs, CO
Before I led P2 I was given some beta on gear, which included taking a couple of Metolius #3s and a #4. The only gear I used, and felt very secure, were #1s and #2s. It is not actually an off-width, but a solid, be it awkward, hand crack. Because of the right leaning and downward direction of the crack, it leaves your body hanging and your right foot smearing most of the way. Jul 1, 2003
.... there are many flakes to hang a rope on, not to mention the rocks perched on top of P1 March of Dimes. I'm sure it is possible to rap directly from the anchors atop P1 Werk Supp, but doing it in 2 shorter raps significantly reduces the chance of something going wrong. May 19, 2003
If this pitch isn't 3 stars, I don't know what is ... Oct 7, 2002
I agree with everyone, the first pitch is a really great climb. The pitch is varied, interesting and fairly sustained. The protection at the bottom of the route looked a little bit sketchy, although I didn't lead the route. But I thought the harder, upper moves were well protected. I really look forwared to leading this pitch.

I think the first pitch is rated 8+ in Rossiter's guide, and I would say that's right on. Sep 30, 2002
The first pitch is easily one of the nicest pieces of rock I have EVER been on. Gorgeous line, good pro and astheitcally pleasing. Climb this thing. I think it deserves three stars:) Jun 14, 2002
Did the first pitch today...you can sling a horn right when the real climbing begins for good, easy pro (not the two obvious horns below it). An all around 3 star pitch--and long. May 31, 2002
If you like big cracks, P2 is great. I haven't found anything quite like it in Eldo. Eventhough P1 covers some discontinous features, the line is very enjoyable with good quality rock. I highly recomend it. Jan 24, 2002
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
An Awesome line.. A little bit of everything, jamfest on P2, good fingers on P1, great length on P1. A really superb route. Good grading as well, P2 deserves more credit than it gets, it is a character builder once you get on it. Jump in !! Nov 5, 2001
Linking this route with the last pitch of March of Dimes is great, and it makes the descent much easier. Even though pitch two was short, I found myself placing more gear than I usually would only because the ramp on which the belayer sits angles up right quite steeply. Resultingly, in the the event of a fall, hitting this ledge is quite likely if the leader has run it out at all. 9+ is a good grade for this pitch, but the 10c March of Dimes pitch is a bit overgraded (more like a/b) especially when compared with routes like Bolting for Glory (10a) and Northcutt Start (10d). Aug 1, 2001
Really?? Wow! I think the first pitch is one of the best 5.8 pitches in the canyon--I've done it about half a dozen times. Great for running up at the end of the day. Jun 13, 2001
Somehow I never realized that there were bolts on top of the first pitch. Always did the long runner and belay at base of P2, as someone mentioned. This is a great route, though personally I don't like the first pitch very well (the 2nd one makes up for it though). Jun 12, 2001
I did both pitches yesterday and I would have to say... the second pitch is VERY STRENUOUS, especially after doing such a long pitch before it. Absolutely a 9+, if you are not comfortable climbing 9's then don't try it unless you got doubles in the #1 and 2 Camalots. I also found this climb to be VERY odd from the usual Eldo climbing style. I can't wait till I have more time to try the next section of March of Dimes (10c)... what a cool lookin' crack. Jun 11, 2001
Yes, I made the same mistake on the descent too which made for some tangy downclimbing the steep slope with loose rocks. The correct or easier way is to stay high on the traverse until you see the talus field.

I found that many smaller pieces work best for the first pitch. My largest piece was a #2 Friend until the last move, where I placed a #3 Friend.

On a side note, Myke and I were filmed on this route today (4-30-01) for some climbing instruction program to be aired on a new cable network. We will probably get 5 sec. at the end when they are fading out. ;-) Jan 1, 2001