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Routes in The Bastille - N Face
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Bastille Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coach's Demise T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cross-country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Crossfire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dalke Offwidth T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Derek-Tissima TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X |
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Direct North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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DNF 5.10 variation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hairstyles and Attitudes T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Independent Study T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inner Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Interceptor T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Lilliburlero T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Liquor Mart T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Madame Guillotine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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March of Dimes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Marie Antoinette T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Marie de Guillotine T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Model Citizen T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Nexus T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Northcutt Guillotine T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Northcutt Start T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Northeast Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Northwest Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Outer Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Outer Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Prow Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Saturnalia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Shatek's Ramp-age T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Space Invaders T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Spice Tour, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Werk Supp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wide Country T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Wide Country Lite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wide Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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X-M T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
| Type: |
Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
Fixed Hardware
(3) |
| FA: | FA: Pat Ament, Rick Warsfield FFA: Pat Ament, Dave Rearick, |
| Page Views: | 37,234 total · 129/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Apr 25, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The only reason I give this 3 stars is because the line is disjunct and it doesn't really go anywhere. However the climbing is excellent, certainly as good as many other 4 star routes. The route starts near the NE corner of the Bastille, right off the road and about 50 feet east of The Bastille Crack. Walk just past the first steep buttress (March of Dimes buttress--about 50 feet high) that lies on the road, 100 yards or so west of the parking lot. The route starts just right of a 40 foot, large rotten dihedral formed by the west edge of March of Dimes buttress.
P1. Climb up flakes and blocks for 25 feet, then move up and right (tricky pro) to a lieback, right-facing flake that leads to a small ledge at 50'. Take care in the first 50 feet as there is a lot of hollow rock; there have been some bad accidents/groundfalls in this section.
From the small ledge, follow a beautiful thin crack and shallow corner. Belay from bolts on a sloping ledge about 120 feet up. I recommend stepping left to the ledge 5 feet or so before the crack ends (especially if your second isn't solid--the bolts are not on top of the crack), (5.8+).
P2. Traverse 15 feet left across the ledge to an obvious, right leaning crack/slot (moving the belay if desired). Climb that for 50 feet (crux, with perfect hand-jamming and awkward feet). Belay on another large ledge. Above is the beautiful 5.10c finger crack of March of Dimes (easily combined with P2 of Werk Supp for a superb pitch of varied crack climbing); climb that, or traverse off to the east into a gully. From the gully, either head down to rap slings around trees (sketchy, not recommended), or boulder up a large chockstone and continue heading east. A rough path through the talus spits you out at the upper end of the parking lot.
If you finish on March of Dimes, you can rappel 80' from chains to the top of P1, then rappel 120' to the ground.
From the top of P1, a 70m rope reaches the ground. With a 60m rope, you'll have to do a short, slightly sketchy downclimb. However, with a 60m, you can rap climber's left to the top of the first pitch of March of Dimes and then again from there to the ground. Be aware of parties climbing up, if you rap directly down the route - this is a very popular single pitch, and, if you rap left of the route, be aware of, and stay out of, the loose chimney/gully between Werk Supp and the March of Dimes buttress.
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