Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Pat Ament, Greg Finoff, 1984
Page Views: 1,532 total · 7/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Jun 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a fun pitch that I had never seen anyone doing. This is the prominent crack line that diagonals up across the pillar between the first pitches of X-M and Northwest Corner. There appear to be two ways to get to the start of the traverse. The guide describes climbing the major left-facing corner that leads to the X-M chimney. I have no idea how hard this is, or if it's any good. There was chalk on the way we went, which was to do a cool boulder problem through an overhang, about 10 to 12 feet right of the start of X-M, to reach a stance and protection point. Then move right six feet or so to a series of corners and overlaps that are followed up and left to the wad of slings at the base of the X-M chimney (a bit of loose rock, but otherwise fun). Clip the wad (long sling), and follow the traverse line to join Northwest Corner. Save a purple Camalot or equivalent for the traverse (wires can be placed, too, but it's strenuous). It's maybe 5.9 or so to the start of the traverse, and 10c seems right for the typical Eldo scrabbly moves across the pillar. Good stuff.

Rap or lower from the Northwest Corner anchor, or carry on up Northwest Corner or X-M.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack, with extra long runners and/or double ropes.

Photos

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