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Routes in The Bastille - N Face

Bastille Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coach's Demise T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cross-country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crossfire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
DNF 5.10 variation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Derek-Tissima TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Direct North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Hairstyles and Attitudes T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Independent Study T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Interceptor T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lilliburlero T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Liquor Mart T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Madame Guillotine S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
March of Dimes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Marie Antoinette T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Model Citizen T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Nexus T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northcutt Start T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Northeast Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Northwest Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Outer Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Outer Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Prow Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Saturnalia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Shatek's Ramp-age T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Space Invaders T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Spice Tour, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Werk Supp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Country T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Wide Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
X-M T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Ed Body & Mike Brooks 1985
Page Views: 1,334 total, 7/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 25, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Ever wondered to what route those 4 old pins belonged as you rappelled off the first pitch of Werk Supp? Well here it is. Find this obscure short pitch just above the first pitch of March of Dimes or starting perhaps 15 feet L of the upper 70 feet of Werk Supp's first pitch on the North Face of the Bastille.

Described by Rossiter's guide as "this pitch parallels the upper half of P1 of Werk Supp on the left." This route probably warrants the bomb rating for the rock bomb potential at least along the line we took. From the little saddle behind the March of Dimes buttress, move slightly R and find a bugaboo (or KB?) a few feet off the ground. You can try to find ways past the pin to the R to avoid touching this huge, tilted, detached flake (now removed) precariously perched up and L of this pin, but neither of us felt it was less than 5.10. Certainly, moving up and R seemed likely to enter X or VS range (if this is the actual line, you should ignore this next bit about the flake and the rating). Then again, so did up and L.

Our efforts required a gentle lieback on this flake (now removed) and fearful stepping upon it to traverse L. The upper part of this flake shifted an inch with gentle outward pressure inward or outward. Arrggghhhh! Reminiscent of Cannon Mountain (NH) rock, this huge block could take out the belay or belayer below and would definitely take out a car on the road. Don't think you're safe yet. As you gain this up and R ramp, you must face other stacked blocks that make you try to minimize your presence.

Finally, reach a decent angle pin (partially hidden under a lump of grass in the crack) in solid rock. From here the route is more technically but less psychologically difficult. Continue up to a KB. Here you go up and highstep L into a briefly fractured band. Climb past what-appears-to-be a soft iron pin and reach the belay thankful for metastabilities. On the positive side, at least none of the 4 pins shift with hand pressure.

Perhaps somethings are better not climbed.

Protection

4 pins (in situ), hmmm, not much else.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
About 3 years ago, (on June 25th, 2004 to be more precise) the loose part of the death flake was briefly in the middle of the road. Now, it's more off on the side. May 31, 2007
Mike Munger
Boulder, Colorado
 
Mike Munger   Boulder, Colorado
 
Tried this route today and I have to agree on the Bomb rating, mainly because of the lack of pro and the large detached flake. Also it may very well be closer to an 'x', at least the way we did it. On lead I got forced left from the top of the flake (5.9) because of the lack of pro, in my opinion, the flake will come off if you fall on the nuts or cams you place behind it. Above that there is no pro till you get to the third pin if you go right from the top of the flake (.10). If you go straight up from the top of the flake it's probably 9+ but again there is very little in the way of good pro till you get to the third pin. Never did see the angle piton but it is probably hidden in the grass off to the left someplace. May 21, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Well...Seeing people rate a route this badly, I just had to go try it. On TR though, given the death flake warnings. First off, I only found 3 of the pins. Second of all it seemed S but not VS. The 50 pound block loose on top of the death flake was removed with benevolence it now lies 6 meters right of the base of Werks Supp. The remaining flake will easily hold a climber, but I wouldn't take a big fall on a cam behind it...

The rest of the route was OK. Tricky to lead? Yes. Sandbagged? Yes. Minus two stars? Not that bad. There are numerous hidden holds that bring this into reality. It's on the shy side of a star, but the route is not a total bomb. Jun 25, 2004
I never knew this route existed before Leo's post, so I had to go right out and get it! I have to agree on the bomb, but it's too bad we couldn't tag on a couple of negative stars. This would be minus-**. Aug 28, 2002