Type: Trad, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: Layton Kor, Pat Ament, 1962. FFA: Larry Dalke, Cliff Jenning
Page Views: 8,643 total · 39/month
Shared By: David Benson on May 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


71 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a serious lead and even more serious for the second. Let me jump ahead to the crux second pitch. The second pitch contains a 20+' traverse after the crux. To protect your second consider a) double ropes, b) solo the pitch, c) rappel and clean the gear, d) have the best climber follow the pitch and hope they don't come off.

Start about 20' right of the start of the Bastille Crack, 10' left of the cave at the base of the Bastille.

P1. Climb up through a series of runout, left-facing dihedrals (7 vs) to an ramping left facing corner. This section contains three pitons of marginal to poor quality, it is very easy to back these up. Continue up the hand crack (10b) and move right at a piton. At this point you're stepping into the base of the detached X-M pinnacle. Grovel up the chimney to the bolted belay on the top of the X-M pinnacle.

P2. From the bolts move back left and down to the left most edge of the X-M pinnacle. Place small wires (RPs) as best you can here. Step onto the left side of the arete and make the crux face moves. The crux is relatively short, then you have 10-15 of 5.9 traversing before you reach easier ground and gear possibilities. Rossiter shows a pin on the topo, but I did not see it. At a shallow, right-facing corner, continue up easier terrain to a bolted belay (watch for bird poop here).

P3. You can either climb up and left or out easier terrain to the right. I lead the right hand variation. From the belay climb up, clip a piton and hand-traverse left. Mantel up on the narrow ledge. From here I continued up to the base of the 10b section of Outer Space.

Rossiter describes a different finish, but continuing onto Outer Space provides a great linkup.

Protection

Rack up to a #2.5 Friend, RPs.

Photos