Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Eric Johnson, Mike Schlauch, Chip Ruckgaber
Page Views: 1,209 total · 15/month
Shared By: mike schlauch on May 31, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Found and inspired by Chip Ruckgaber, Space is one of those routes that is very obvious once you look at it but it has been passed up by climbers for years. It is the obvious, right-angling strata that begins about 20' up the third pitch of Wide Country and traverses all the way across the upper North Face until you can finish up Saturnalia. Look on page 51 of the Levin guide and you'll see it.

Location

Approach via Wide Country or the Bastille Crack. Set a gear belay at an old piton at the base of Wide Country's third pitch. Head up Wide Country for about 20' (10c) to the beginning of the angling strata that shoots all the way across the upper North face. Place gear high on Wide Country and head out onto the face toward a bolt on Hairstyles. Continue the pumpy, rising traverse toward Outer Space (medium nut & 1.5" cam). Cross Outer Space and continue toward Saturnalia. Place a good 3" cam then head up Saturnalia. Pumpy. The crux is probably the section that crosses Hairstyles.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack. Lots of long slings. Consider bringing extra 0.5-2.5" cams if you place a lot of gear on the first 20' of Wide Country's third pitch. #4 cam could be useful, but not necessary. Clip a bolt on Hairstyles as you cross that route.

Photos

EDJ Johnson
Eldorado Springs, Colorado
 
EDJ Johnson   Eldorado Springs, Colorado
 
Great find, Chip! Thanks! Super fun climb, exciting and safe.... Jun 1, 2012
Nice work, lads! Looks like a terrific addition. Jun 1, 2012
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
That's fast action! Chip was pointing that route out to me, and it seemed almost like the next day you guys did it. Ya Big Studs! Jun 5, 2012