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Routes in The Bastille - N Face

Bastille Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coach's Demise T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cross-country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crossfire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
DNF 5.10 variation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Derek-Tissima TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Direct North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Hairstyles and Attitudes T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Independent Study T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Interceptor T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lilliburlero T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Liquor Mart T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Madame Guillotine S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
March of Dimes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Marie Antoinette T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Model Citizen T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Nexus T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northcutt Start T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Northeast Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Northwest Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Outer Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Outer Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Prow Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Saturnalia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Shatek's Ramp-age T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Space Invaders T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Spice Tour, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Werk Supp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Country T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Wide Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
X-M T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Eric Johnson, Mike Schlauch, Chip Ruckgaber
Page Views: 1,128 total, 17/month
Shared By: mike schlauch on May 31, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Found and inspired by Chip Ruckgaber, Space is one of those routes that is very obvious once you look at it but it has been passed up by climbers for years. It is the obvious, right-angling strata that begins about 20' up the third pitch of Wide Country and traverses all the way across the upper North Face until you can finish up Saturnalia. Look on page 51 of the Levin guide and you'll see it.

Location

Approach via Wide Country or the Bastille Crack. Set a gear belay at an old piton at the base of Wide Country's third pitch. Head up Wide Country for about 20' (10c) to the beginning of the angling strata that shoots all the way across the upper North face. Place gear high on Wide Country and head out onto the face toward a bolt on Hairstyles. Continue the pumpy, rising traverse toward Outer Space (medium nut & 1.5" cam). Cross Outer Space and continue toward Saturnalia. Place a good 3" cam then head up Saturnalia. Pumpy. The crux is probably the section that crosses Hairstyles.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack. Lots of long slings. Consider bringing extra 0.5-2.5" cams if you place a lot of gear on the first 20' of Wide Country's third pitch. #4 cam could be useful, but not necessary. Clip a bolt on Hairstyles as you cross that route.

Photos

Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
That's fast action! Chip was pointing that route out to me, and it seemed almost like the next day you guys did it. Ya Big Studs! Jun 5, 2012
Nice work, lads! Looks like a terrific addition. Jun 1, 2012
EDJ
Eldorado Springs, Colorado
 
EDJ   Eldorado Springs, Colorado
 
Great find, Chip! Thanks! Super fun climb, exciting and safe.... Jun 1, 2012