Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Chip Ruckgaber, Dan Hare, 1984
Page Views: 665 total · 13/month
Shared By: Stefan Griebel on Apr 25, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This exciting pitch is an alternative to the 5.9+ P4 of X-M and is actually more in character with the "sporty" P3 of X-M. It's even protected by similar sketchball, rusty, Eldo pins, but at least there are 3 instead of only 2....

From the belay atop X-M's P3, look at the first dihedral to the right of Outer Space's P1. This is Liquor Mart. X-M continues along the broken strata up and right, while Liquor Mart goes straight up the dihedral. This is characterized by compression moves, difficult clips, and a crux move left to get established in the dihedral itself. A few moves above the 3rd and final lousy pin (not including the stray one way up and right) more gear can be had; the climbing also gets significantly easier. Finish and belay on the large, sloping Outer Space ramp.

I recommend linking P3 of X-M with this rather than building a belay at the sloping shelf at the guidebook finish of X-M-P3. That way, there is even more rope out to soften your fall onto the manky pins!

Location

This ascends the first dihedral to the right of Outer Space's P1.

Protection

Single cams from 00 to #3 and long slings.

Photos

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