Avg: 2.9 from 12 votes
|FA:||Jeff Lowe & John Baldwin 1978|
|Page Views:||4,183 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||David A. Turner on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
This route is included in Steve Levin's "Spice Tour" description, but because of its quality, this deserves its very own entry.
Get to this climb by either climbing the first pitch of Wide Country, the first two pitches of X-M, or the first pitch and 1/2 of the NW Corner. If starting from X-M, traverse right until you are on top of the NW Corner finger crack. Clip a bolt off the belay ledge, but otherwise there is not much pro until you arrive here.
Head up and left to an undercling flake which you should lace with gear because that is going to be it for a while. Now moving up and slightly right on great edges but zero pro (10a) brings you to a short but welcome crack. Watch out for the loose hold somewhere before you reach this crack. Pulling this off would result in a nasty fall.
Stuff the crack with lots of cams of around 1" size. The crux is a bit runout too, but after the face climbing you just did, it feels pretty close. A short, much easier & well-protected dihedral lands you on the big ledge below the Outer Space headwall. David A. Turner