Type: Trad
FA: Jeff Lowe & John Baldwin 1978
Page Views: 5,151 total · 18/month
Shared By: David A. Turner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Bold but not death defying for those comfortable with soloing 10a, this is a coup in your belt for doing this one.

This route is included in Steve Levin's "Spice Tour" description, but because of its quality, this deserves its very own entry.

Get to this climb by either climbing the first pitch of Wide Country, the first two pitches of X-M, or the first pitch and 1/2 of the NW Corner. If starting from X-M, traverse right until you are on top of the NW Corner finger crack. Clip a bolt off the belay ledge, but otherwise there is not much pro until you arrive here.

Head up and left to an undercling flake which you should lace with gear because that is going to be it for a while. Now moving up and slightly right on great edges but zero pro (10a) brings you to a short but welcome crack. Watch out for the loose hold somewhere before you reach this crack. Pulling this off would result in a nasty fall.

Stuff the crack with lots of cams of around 1" size. The crux is a bit runout too, but after the face climbing you just did, it feels pretty close. A short, much easier & well-protected dihedral lands you on the big ledge below the Outer Space headwall. David A. Turner

Protection Suggest change

Standard Eldo rack (be sure to include one inch cams).