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Routes in The Bastille - N Face

Bastille Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coach's Demise T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cross-country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crossfire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
DNF 5.10 variation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Derek-Tissima TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Direct North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Hairstyles and Attitudes T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Independent Study T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Interceptor T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lilliburlero T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Liquor Mart T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Madame Guillotine S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
March of Dimes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Marie Antoinette T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Model Citizen T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Nexus T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northcutt Start T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Northeast Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Northwest Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Outer Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Outer Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Prow Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Saturnalia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Shatek's Ramp-age T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Space Invaders T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Spice Tour, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Werk Supp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Country T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Wide Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
X-M T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad
FA: Christian and Dale in 1984? Candaleria?
Page Views: 2,839 total · 14/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Dec 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description [Edit]

This is basically a direct finish to the crack on the first pitch of X-M and actually finishes at the bolt anchors atop Wide Country.

Follow the X-M crack up the face. When the crack turns from a bomber lieback to fingers and hands is where X-M moves right into the ugly chimney to finish atop the pillar. If you want to do Interceptor, continue up the crack until it peters out at the base of a nice face/scoop.

Place a good TCU here (strenuous) and move up into the face via thin edges. A final crimp moves gets you over the bulge and into the middle of the scoop, where you can drape a sling around a flake for protection. Easier climbing leads up and left to the anchors on Wide Country.

Protection [Edit]

Standard Eldo rack with an emphasis on finger-hand sized cams and a long sling to drape over a flake.

Photos

Also see the route description for The Spice Tour. Dec 11, 2001
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11b
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11b
I think that this is one of the better pitches in Eldo. Deserves 3 stars. Apr 18, 2005
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11b R
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11b R
Just got back from Eldo this morning and climbed this route. What an outstanding pitch! Interceptor epitomizes Eldo climbing. Once you get out of the crack just keep your head in "check" until you can drape a sling over the flake. The moves are all there, just spicey. Three stars for sure. I would recommend this pitch to anyone who climbs this grade at Eldo. May 26, 2006
Josh Janes    
 
This is probably my favorite pitch on the Bastille -- classic Eldo. I think the only R section is the easy climbing early on. While a fall from the upper face/crux (before slinging the flake) could be big, it would also be nothing but air, in fact, I actually think it is a great pitch to push one's mental barriers on lead.

The second photo of Rob Kepley leading shows the location of the green Alien or similar piece (his highest piece), but one should also note that gear to back it up (a green or red camalot) can be had underneath the flake he's standing on. Jun 7, 2006
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.11b R
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.11b R
Josh and Rob are right, an overlooked classic for sure. On my redpoint, I opted for a red Camalot about a foot below where Rob placed the micro Camalot in the photo, which I skipped. The classic conundrum of more pro or go is encountered.

Those that can onsight I applaud as this un-Eldo gem is tough to decipher. Jun 8, 2006
I'm perdy dang sure the FA is Rob Candeleria, CATS Rob. Great route with one critical sequence to read, other than that just great keep-your-head-together Eldo climbing. Sep 14, 2008
Chris Archer
  5.11 PG13
Chris Archer  
  5.11 PG13
Based solely on the last 2 editions of Rossiter's guides to Eldo (1989 & 2000), the FA is listed as Christian and Dale in 1984 (or perhaps the Kid in '77). Sep 15, 2008
Adam Brink
on the road
  5.11b PG13
Adam Brink   on the road
  5.11b PG13
Stellar climbing that seems to go on forever! This must have been 100 feet to the anchors and none of it boring. While this might be R rated for the first thirty feet (and it's only 5.7 there), after that it is safe with only the chance for a long, clean fall. Another Eldo gem. May 18, 2009
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
I fell a good ways several times onto a red C3 in the green Alien placement mentioned above. I bent the $&%# out of it. I recommend either a flexible cam, like an Alien, or just going with the red C4 that's about a foot below that (I tested the red C4, it's good!).

The beginning is a little scary, and I did a lot of traversing around. It looks like there are two possible ways to go, and of course the other way looks easier than the way you are attempting at the time... a little sketchy. You have to pull a "5.7" move (think the crux of the Bastille Crack) with no gear about fifteen-twenty feet above a bad landing. Aug 26, 2011
WadeM
Golden, Co
  5.11b R
WadeM   Golden, Co
  5.11b R
Great pitch!

Single rack of finger and maybe doubles on 1.

I placed a #2 (not great) and a 0.75 (bomber) before the crux runout, number 1 would have been better.

You can get in something smaller higher, but honestly that would be a speedbump.

High quality but definitely R (a safe clean long fall). Apr 22, 2016
Richard Border
Boulder, CO
Richard Border   Boulder, CO
Protected the crux runout with a # 1 Camalot right next to the last good hand jam. About 1 - 2 ft below the optional micro cam placement. Whipped 25' at the crux, and I can testify that the gear is good :) Fantastic route. Aug 8, 2016

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