Northwest Corner
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.2 from 133 votes
Type: |
Trad
Fixed Hardware
(11) |
FA: | FA:Layton Kor and Peter Lev, FFA: Pat Ament, 1966 |
Page Views: | 14,584 total · 52/month |
Shared By: | Chris Dawson on Oct 2, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is another "classic" .11- on the north side of the Bastille.
Start near the base of Rain on the (surprising) northwest corner of the Bastille. Climb up and left via underclings, past a few fixed pins and one tricky move to the top of the pillar and a two bolt anchor (.9).
The next pitch climbs up the left-facing corner, through a small roof (.9+) and up the thin crack (crux). Reach up to clip a bolt and traverse right to a belay at a bolt on the arete.
Pitch three follows the obvious corner above for 40 feet. Move up and right through loose strata to overhung moves along a chalked flake (more pins). Belay on same ledge as for Outer Space.
Pitch four options include outer space and traversing right and up the last pitch of West Buttress.
Overall, this is an enjoyable route. The crux pitch may feel a little hard for the grade.
Start near the base of Rain on the (surprising) northwest corner of the Bastille. Climb up and left via underclings, past a few fixed pins and one tricky move to the top of the pillar and a two bolt anchor (.9).
The next pitch climbs up the left-facing corner, through a small roof (.9+) and up the thin crack (crux). Reach up to clip a bolt and traverse right to a belay at a bolt on the arete.
Pitch three follows the obvious corner above for 40 feet. Move up and right through loose strata to overhung moves along a chalked flake (more pins). Belay on same ledge as for Outer Space.
Pitch four options include outer space and traversing right and up the last pitch of West Buttress.
Overall, this is an enjoyable route. The crux pitch may feel a little hard for the grade.
34 Comments