Type: Trad, 310 ft, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: Jim Erickson, John Behrens, Stand Badgett, 1969.
Page Views: 21,282 total · 93/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


389 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

I like this route even better than the adjacent and more popular West Buttress. It is steep, not too hard, and on positive holds the whole way. The first pitch has a reputation for being runout; this is only mildly true. The hard moves have good pro, and even the parts that look runout from down below have hidden stopper placements. There are multiple variations to the route above the 2nd bolt.

The first pitch is long, has a couple 5.9 moves at the start, and several more .8+ moves. 130 feet.

The second pitch climbs a steep .9+ crack over a bulge on positive holds. Heads up on this section though as it climbs loose unprotected rock up to the crux move which is well protected with a single stopper. Above the crux there is runout but cool .7 face climbing to the top. 180 feet. Great route.

Protection

This is a slightly runout route. It has a pin & 2 bolts on the first pitch, the rest of the pitch takes medium stoppers, an RP, a couple TCUs and I slung a hole in the rock (quite bomber actually). There is a pin right of the final leftward traverse. The first belay is a double bolt anchor.

Photos