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Routes in The Bastille - W Face

Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakfast in Bed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Archer and company 1997
Page Views: 9,139 total, 48/month
Shared By: Chris Dawson on May 22, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Sunset Boulevard is located on the west face of the Bastille. To approach, hike up the Bastille descent trail past the West Buttress, past Blind Faith, and past Breakfast in Bed.

Start from the trail where a wide crack (New Chautauqua) leads up to a roof with chalked holds. Start up the face to the left of the crack, wander up to a pin in a bulge and follow the line of bolts through the roof and up the face above all the way to the walk-off ledge for The Bastille Crack.

This pitch has surprisingly awesome rock, really good pro (it's bolted) and killer moves. I'm tempted to give it three stars, but I think we give too many things three stars on this site that may not quite deserve it. Fred Knapp stated in his Best of Boulder Climbs guide that this has become a "classic de jour" and I can see why. I loved this route. The crux is short and it's near the bottom of the route. A lot of guides call this .11c or .11b/c, but I think it's a little easier, maybe even .11a if you're comparing it to T2 or something. Anyhow, after the crux is over the route continues to deliver with absolutely awesome movement up the steep face on better than could be hoped for holds. Definitely worth a go if you're up on the Bastille. Oh, and many guides also note the optional light rack to supplement the bolts. I brought a few pieces but didn't place any, as I thought the bolts were sufficient. It tops out just to the left of Your Mother when facing the wall at a dead tree (belay anchor).

Protection

7 or so bolts and a pin down low. Bring some long draws for the first couple clips.
tyler.evans evans
Boulder, CO
 
tyler.evans evans   Boulder, CO
 
Jumped on Sunset Boulevard yesterday. Pulled off a hand-sized rock right above the pin - which totally foiled my onsight :/ but ... the pin holds! In retrospect, if I was paying more attention, I probably would have realized that wasn't a good crimp to pull on and would have followed the chalk. Anyway, fun route and unique in Eldo. Jul 15, 2017
Pink Thunder
Lakewood
  5.11a PG13
Pink Thunder   Lakewood
  5.11a PG13
This route is just fun. Almost like the anti-Eldo in that it's well-protected and full of jugs. Not that committing, once you get past the pin and the potential ledgefall at the start. After the crux at the first bolt, the rest is a jug-haul cruise. Sep 27, 2016
Nathaniel Dray
Fort Collins
  5.11a
Nathaniel Dray   Fort Collins
  5.11a
No beta: I think that before the crux is 9+ and after the crux is something between 5.9 and 10a depending on your stamina. Before the first bolt, the pin backs up with a perfect nut (extend w/ sling), and a tiny cam a few feet up (also extend) will prevent a whip if you somehow blew the first bolt. Jun 6, 2016
WadeM
Golden, Co
  5.10d
WadeM   Golden, Co
  5.10d
10+ to .9. Jun 15, 2015
Fixed it, Matt. The online database of fixed hardware is a pretty new feature, and some of the data needs lovin'.

Not unlike much of the hardware in our beloved chosspile. May 2, 2013
Andrew McLean
Colorado
  5.11a/b
Andrew McLean   Colorado
  5.11a/b
Looks like the pin is new(ish) as it is not even rusted. You can back it up with green Alien or small nuts. It's all good once you get the 1st bolt above the pin. Jul 12, 2011
pfwein
Boulder, CO
 
pfwein   Boulder, CO
 
My gear (other than bolts/piton): #1 Camalot before piton, nut after piton (can't remember which one but about size of little purple TCU), and slung horn up high (not necessary but cut down on somewhat spacey (but reasonable) bolts. Not many (or perhaps any!) routes like this in Eldo--a real sport climb (with a small bit of supplemental gear as noted). Lots of fun; I wish there more. Oct 4, 2008
TBlom  
Lots of fun, the start looks intimidating but is pretty solid. A small RP can back up the pin and a blue Alien/blue TCU can be found at the ledge before getting to the first bolt. It is also pretty easy to clip the first bolt and downclimb for a rest.
This was my hardest redpoint and onsight in Eldo to date, felt easier than some 10s though. I'd like to call it 11a, but other routes of the same grade seem harder (first p. Genesis, Vertigo, C'est La Vie). People who haul overhanging jugs at the gym will do fine on this.
A warm up on Hair City yesterday was perfect before Sunset Boulevard. Apr 23, 2008
Chris Weber
Boulder, CO
Chris Weber   Boulder, CO
I too enjoyed this route and agree that it is soft for Eldo--I felt like I was on the beach in Thailand while powering through the jugs while clipping bolts (in more ways than one). I wasn't sure of the grade beforehand and thought it was hard 10 or easy 11 (not that I am an authority). The runouts were totally manageable on easier ground but I did place some gear (equalized two small tcus)in the stratum below the first bolt as I didn't know what I was getting into. In hindsight, the clip wasn't bad. All in all, this helped my ego in contrast to all the sketchy 10+/11-s in Eldo. Jun 4, 2007
Alan Searcy
Pine, Colorado
  5.11b PG13
Alan Searcy   Pine, Colorado
  5.11b PG13
Though it's too new to be in the Boulder Climbs South guide, I've seen folks on it and kept marching on by without giving it a second thought. I'm happy that tradition ended and we jumped on it finally. The bolts are in good spots, but I backed up the pin out of habit. If you blow the first bolt and your belayer is narcoleptic, you could deck I guess. The moves through the first and second roofs are exquisite and the slab work past the white round inclusion was superb. The end left me wanting more, kind of like a slutty supermodel lingerie show. Sep 1, 2006
Chris Archer
  5.11 PG13
Chris Archer  
  5.11 PG13
A point of clarification to the ac who thought the 2nd bolt above the crux was unnecessary. I added that bolt to protect the second. Without it, a fall at the crux while following the pitch sends the second into space and necessitates lowering to the ground and starting over. Aug 19, 2004
Hey folks, climbed this one for the first time in a few years onsighted (loved) it the first time, got spanked the second time, flashed (loved) it the third time, the first time up the route was right after it went up and the thing that impressed me the most was the quality of rock/movement and the well spaced bolts. Except for the second bolt, I found the second bolt to be unnecessary and a real energy sucker AND out of character with the well spaced bolts on the rest of the route - my advice to those who follow is to ignore the bolt and go for the good holds. I understand that this bolt may take some of the commitment off the edge of the crux move but climbing in Eldo requires commitment even when on a sport/mixed route. Also, having climbed the route before and after the newly installed chain anchor. I found the route to be more enjoyable, in the style of Eldo climbing, when the route continued to the ledge - c'est la vie = have fun - thanks, Chris. Aug 19, 2004
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
I did this route yesterday and it was great. I thought the bolts were perfect and although I had extra gear on me I did not place any. The wall looks intimidating as it is overhung the whole way but there are some great rests (no hands) and all jugs. Just keep pulling clipping and you will get through it. Amazing position and a great route to jump on on the way down the Bastille from another route. Sep 25, 2003
There is now a beefy, two bolt 'sport anchor' that allows a true sport climbing experience, right here in Eldo. (The Action Committee for Eldo web site reveals that this was applied for and approved in the Fall of 2002). This anchor makes this a really fun, quick sport route to do before work. A 60m rope was plenty long for the TR/rap off - the application on the ACE site states that the anchor is "97 feet above the ground". Jun 12, 2003
Excellent route. It feels like an 11-, but you almost forget that you are in Eldo. There's definitely no need for sketching around trying to will an RP into the rock, I did it out of old habit going for the onsight but will probably just use the bolts from now on. At most sport crags, I think this would probably get an R rating as well as three stars. I wouldn't be too psyched to use only the dead tree as a belay anchor, this route is pretty good at spitting people off. I used some nuts, a #2 Camalot and a long sling to make a solid anchor at the walk off ledge. Jun 6, 2002
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
Ditto, Roger (on both accounts) - I was climbing up in the Estes Park area this past weekend and a fall on some of the bolted climbs would have been dramatic to say the least: Index toe before the last bolt comes to mind - there is the potential for 50'er (easy rock but uneasy climbing). Some bolted routes are not for the squeemish.... May 29, 2002
Chris Dawson
Denver, CO
 
Chris Dawson   Denver, CO
 
Here's what I think about sport/trad with bolts. In my opinion, part of the definition of a sport route is that it is well protected enough that there is no potential for long falls or dangerous ones anyway. So if you go by that, routes like Pansee Sauvage or maybe Just Another Girls Climb, or any pitch with an "S" rating, wouldn't be classified as sport routes even though bolts are the only pro. Sunset Boulevard is definitely a sport route. May 29, 2002
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
J. Thompson   denver, co
 
I agree this is a good route. I also agree that this route is probably not .11c. It also poses a question- Is a route that is lead using only bolts for pro a sport route? This one is not over bolted, but the cruxes are well protected. Hmmm.... May 27, 2002