Avg: 3.5 from 659 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Jim Erickson, free solo (hence the name), 1972|
|Page Views:||31,529 total · 132/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000 with 1 Suggestions|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
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Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
The route is not hard to recognize, it is a hand-sized crack that runs diagonally up and right for about 100 feet. Start P1 by jamming up an easy crack to some more technical moves in the middle of the pitch. Eventually move past a short chimney and the crux becomes quite apparent. The crack splits into two options, the left crack is solid hand size and easily swallows pro as it ascends an overhanging bulge (5.10a). The right hand crack is a very thin crack that probably takes very small TCUs or nuts as it ascends the same bulge (5.10c). Belay on a ledge right after pulling the bulge. This entire pitch has some exquisite climbing that is never desperate and easily protectable. Good stuff.
P2 starts out by ascending a blocky bulge that is more overhanging than it first appears (5.9). Make off balance move to pull over a bulge. The pro is good and the pitch gets easier as it scales a wide chimney to the summit (5.6). This is a short but really good quality route. I recommend climbing it once first before trying it in the original style, though.