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Routes in The Bastille - W Face

Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakfast in Bed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Culp, Alan Clark, John Link, 1968
Page Views: 2,968 total, 15/month
Shared By: Kristo torgersen on Jun 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Out to Lunge is located on the west face of the Bastille, uphill from the Blind Faith corner and starts beneath a large coniferous tree.

P1. Begin by either ascending the starting corner of Breakfast in Bed or climbing the slab directly below the initial left-facing corner/ramp system (both are easy 5th class) to a ledge. Climb up this corner (careful of loose rock) to an okay stance below a left-facing flake (the climbing up to this point is quite runout, and I believe it deserves an "s" rating even though Rossiter doesn't give it one). One can place medium TCUs, medium nuts, and possibly a #1 Camalot here before laybacking the flake and manteling onto its top (crux of route). After the mantel, a #8 WC nut fits nicely into a shallow groove to the right. Continue straight up towards the roof on easy, hueco'ed 5.5 climbing. Moving left 5 feet below the roof makes for a long reach between big holds, where climbing straight up to the roof and then left is shorter moves on smaller holds. Place gear before this, because the fixed pin can't be clipped until after the 5.8 moves are made. Bust up left around the arete, and finish up easy face climbing or corner to the broad Bastille descent ledge. If doing only P1, descend as for all other Bastille routes.

P2. Per Michael Komarnitsky: continue up and slightly right up a slab before turning an awkward looking, off-width/chimney crack/roof. It's actually hands and a finger lock once you get up there, but there's a tricky move on the clean face that is unprotectable - THIS warrants an s rating, I believe. Anyways, turn the corner and follow the easy climbing another 15 feet to the ridge and belay. I thought this was definitely better than 1 star, 2 stars in my book.

Protection

Bring a full set of nuts, single rack of cams up to a #3, and several standard length runners.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9- PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9- PG13
An ascent of this route should include P2 for full value. The pitch is significant, worthy, and fun. Aug 23, 2015
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
  5.9 R
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
  5.9 R
P1 PG-13 for sure, though not at the crux level. P2 is fun though a bit unnerving off the ground. If you come off the thin face to the first pro, you'd easily break an ankle. "R" rating for this on the upper pitch. Jun 17, 2015
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.9- PG13
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.9- PG13
Great route with much better climbing than I imagined after looking it over from the ground. It was a little spicy but never seriously runout, and the cruxes had gear at your waist or above. The upper slab is a little tricky, but as someone mentioned earlier, you can sling a decent chickenhead/pebble off to your right for some pro. After that, it's one big move up to a jug and then good gear to the top. Apr 17, 2015
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Runout to block/flake 30ish feet.

Placing gear behind it isn't necessarily inspiring. The route is super good though, really fun climbing. Good inverted #2 halfway up route. Jul 22, 2014
Justin Compton
Lafayette, CO
  5.9 PG13
Justin Compton   Lafayette, CO
  5.9 PG13
The first pitch of the climb is not as bad as some of the comments make it appear. The run-outs are on easy terrain, and cruxes can be protected if you're willing to spend the time looking for solid placements. I used a lot of nuts on pitch one and a R.P. above the mantle. The second pitch is much headier I.M.O., slippery feet on the slab and I had to cut my feet loose to pull the overhang. Jun 24, 2013
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.8+
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.8+
Be aware that the entire first rising traverse off the deck on P1 is now essentially unprotectable (as of 07/09). A flake that once could be used for pro at the end of the traverse has become very loose. (It's actually just barely hanging on). That has compromised the integrity of the neighboring flake, as well, which used to have a great nut placement. That means that you're run out 30 feet before a good piece of pro at the 5.7 grade. What a great climb, though! Jul 9, 2009
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.9
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.9
I thought the run out up the slab and the roof on pitch two warranted a .9 rating. The crux on pitch one seemed about .8ish though. Fun climb. May 22, 2009
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
A few days ago, I had to re-climb this on TR to get a nut out. I lowered to the ground to get the nut tool, got the nut, and then, at the mantle move, moved left and up over a featured face into a left facing corner that led to the upper easy climbing. Fun climbing, but it would be pretty runout on the lead. I saw some chalk down and left that looked like someone was considering climbing straight up to the left-facing corner, but there's a pretty blank steep section blocking the way. May 1, 2009
Michael Amato
  5.8+
Michael Amato  
  5.8+
Climbed the first pitch of this route a few days ago, right after climbing Breakfast In Bed. IMHO, this climb is not nearly as difficult nor as serious a lead, but much more esthetic. A bit runout, but all of the crux moves were made from relatively good stances and were protected by fairly decent pro. A lot of fun, though it didn't seem as hard as 5.9 to me. May 10, 2005
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.8+
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.8+
Man! Finally got around to doing this! I feel like it was just a bit easier than Breakfast In Bed. I'd give both that climb and this one an 8+. The second pitch is also a blast. To avoid the 's' slab, I started far left and got a decent piece in before traversing up to the roof. The roof indeed has good holds around the corner, but you ARE hanging it out there! Very fun. Aug 8, 2004
David Kerns  
 
This would be a 3 star on the West Ridge. Pitch 1 is steep and continuous for the grade (whatever it is) -- pretty darn fun. P2 is basically two moves, but still adds some value. Jun 22, 2003
I agree with a previous comment that the mantel isn't as hard asa 5.9. A friend of mine lead breakfast in bed the same day andit sounded like his mantel was much more difficult than mine.I however didn't like the pro placement before the 5.8 sectionat the top. I found myself about 20 feet above my last placement(just after the crux mantel) and placed two very sketchy pieces which Idon't think I would have trusted body weight to. Is it possiblethat I missed some good placements in the 5.5 section? In any caseI enjoyed the climbing, but would warn climbers about the proplacement at the top of P1. Also, in the 5.8 section, going straightup on small holds and moving left although looks rather uninvitingat first is not as bad as it looks. The feet I thought were really good.Alex Olivas. Jun 9, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
For the "unprotectable slab move" on P2, you can sling a decent small horn (a large round pebble) on the right. With the belayer down and left from the start, this horn is quite good. If you come off you'll still hit the big horizontal crack, but the horn should keep you from going all the way to the walk-off ledge. May 30, 2003
There is a pretty fun variation listed in the guidebook for pitch 2: Go up the left side of the slab and turn the roof at a thin crack (10d/11a). Gotta say, although it's short-lived, this is pretty damn hard for the grade and a wee bit hairy to protect. Did I mention reachy? Aug 6, 2002
Quick comment-Did the route for the 3rd time today, and realized a good way to keep the rope out of the roof crack atop the 2nd pitch is to brinng a #2 Camalot or equivalent for a pothole about 5 feet right of the belay ( a straight in crack 15 feet above the roof). This will keep the rope to the 2nd climbers right (out of the crack) and make it easier to belay. Otherwise it has a tendency to get caught in the sharp finger crack at the crux move while you belay your second. Jun 20, 2002
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
FWIW, I thought it protected fairly well (the first pitch at least). Pitch 2 continues up and slightly right up a slab before turning an awkward looking, off-width/chimney crack/roof. It's actually hands and a finger lock once you get up there, but there's a tricky move on the clean face that is unprotectable - THIS warrants an s rating, I believe. Anyways, turn the corner and follow the easy climbing another 15 feet to the ridge and belay. I thought this was definitely better than 1 star, 2 stars in my book. Sep 5, 2001
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
This was a good climb. I think my entertainment came from the assortment of quality moves. I didn't do a route submittal since I did not do P2. Anyway, the "s" rating may be warranted as Kristo suggests since some of the placements behind the hollow flakes are questionable and well spaced. My partner and I felt that this pitch was 5.8. However, I would recommend Blind Faith (10-) to the 5.8 leader before this climb due to the nature of the protection. Aug 8, 2001