Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Culp, Alan Clark, John Link, 1968
Page Views: 3,603 total · 15/month
Shared By: Kristo torgersen on Jun 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Out to Lunge is located on the west face of the Bastille, uphill from the Blind Faith corner and starts beneath a large coniferous tree.

P1. Begin by either ascending the starting corner of Breakfast in Bed or climbing the slab directly below the initial left-facing corner/ramp system (both are easy 5th class) to a ledge. Climb up this corner (careful of loose rock) to an okay stance below a left-facing flake (the climbing up to this point is quite runout, and I believe it deserves an "s" rating even though Rossiter doesn't give it one). One can place medium TCUs, medium nuts, and possibly a #1 Camalot here before laybacking the flake and manteling onto its top (crux of route). After the mantel, a #8 WC nut fits nicely into a shallow groove to the right. Continue straight up towards the roof on easy, hueco'ed 5.5 climbing. Moving left 5 feet below the roof makes for a long reach between big holds, where climbing straight up to the roof and then left is shorter moves on smaller holds. Place gear before this, because the fixed pin can't be clipped until after the 5.8 moves are made. Bust up left around the arete, and finish up easy face climbing or corner to the broad Bastille descent ledge. If doing only P1, descend as for all other Bastille routes.

P2. Per Michael Komarnitsky: continue up and slightly right up a slab before turning an awkward looking, off-width/chimney crack/roof. It's actually hands and a finger lock once you get up there, but there's a tricky move on the clean face that is unprotectable - THIS warrants an s rating, I believe. Anyways, turn the corner and follow the easy climbing another 15 feet to the ridge and belay. I thought this was definitely better than 1 star, 2 stars in my book.

Protection

Bring a full set of nuts, single rack of cams up to a #3, and several standard length runners.

Photos