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Routes in The Bastille - W Face

Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakfast in Bed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: J. Erickson, M. Sharp, 1981
Page Views: 105 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 30, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Location and Description

To find this climb, hike up the hill from the start of Blind Faith. In the large recessed area just uphill and before coming below the ledge as for Out To Lunge and Breakfast In Bed, there are a few corners. The left of these is a hanging dihedral, starting about 20' above the ground and going for a few body lengths. This is guarded from below by an overhang of fractured rock. This is The Early Riser. It is a fairly short climb with some interesting and surprisingly good moves, yet overwhelmed by a preponderance of "blah" and somewhat runout concern. If it were all as clean as the crux or that section were longer, I'd have a lot more to say about this route. As is, however, it is a fun and surprising diversion only for the Eldo enthusiasts. For the rest of the crowd, there are better options.

Climb up and left into the start on fractured rock. This might be 5.7-5.8 but is not protect-able. Cut back slightly right to pull in to the obvious part of the climb just below the hanging, left-facing corner. Good gear is available here, and thankfully so. Place a few good pieces and pull the crux getting up into the dihedral. This is at first much harder than you might expect for the grade and might stay that way for people below perhaps 5'6". For those of us a little taller, have faith and go for it, it will all work out if you keep moving up.

Finish up the short corner, and then climb up and right onto a ledge with a substantial pine. Belay there, watching and re-directing the rope with some pro so as not to have it knocking down loose scree from the ledge if the second falls.

Protection

As standard light rack: cams from small to hand-size and a few nuts if needed. Some longer slings are advised, as well as a cordalette for the tree-belay.

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