Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Jim Erickson, solo, 1980
Page Views: 238 total · 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The obscure tour continues. Are you bored? Are you looking for another route to touch virgin-to-you rock in this crag paradise? "This route climbs the bulge and crack just to the right of P1 of Neon Lights" according to Rossiter's guide. Find this, um, er, ah, well, different pitch of rock high on the west side of the Bastille between Neon Lights' and Voodoo's first pitches.

I doubt this one sees Bastille-like action or even pitch one of Neon Lights traffic. This has scaly rock, a tough start, a high step, and a layback, for an appetizer. It gives you loads of respect for those who went before you. Then angle right towards an inviting roof. The sort-of-pockets in the roof above feels stiff for 5.9 and seems more like mortal-5.10b. Whew, give me a moment to catch my breath. Oh yeah, and there isn't much pro for this bit. Or, maybe Jim was smarter and didn't go this way. Continue on above with less-challenging terrain to the walk-off ledge, and don't knock any of those stacked blocks over near the top, please.

A TR might be less bold but possibly wiser.

Protection

It is probably best to TR, or bring a standard Eldo rack.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 R
I did this one just a few months back and my overall assesment was that it was just plain dirty and flaky - which would have left me with the impression that it would be better as a TR - presuming for a moment that it would be worth the effort of setting one up. However, it isn't. I concur with the bomb rating Leo gives it. There are higher quality routes that are just as obscure. Sep 4, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 R
And having forgotten I'd ever done it, I went to do it again today and had an OK time on it. It is seldom traveled, but it has had a good cleaning and probably deserves a star. The rating felt right, and the gear was within reason this time. Just goes to show - that there are good and bad days both! Aug 23, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
I don't think the climb deserves a bomb. There are better routes nearby, but it is something to do if you want to do another route in the area. The crux is really short, and the rest is easy. Jun 20, 2016