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Routes in The Bastille - W Face

Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakfast in Bed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Mike Brooks and Dan Mcquade 1985
Page Views: 1,210 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 31, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

First, refer to the details for Rain. This route ascends the Bastille via the Northwest side of wall, just up from the North end of the road, past the 'cave' as for Rain. Go up Rain to the first pin, place gear under the first roof (prior to the route's crux), and then move left to the end of this roof. Go up the shrinking dihedral to its end from there (10' max) and then up another thin, left-facing dihedral system and flakes until you arrive at a sloping ledge just below and left of the Rain's bolted first-pitch anchors. Traverse up and right to these anchors and rap off 115'.

This system appears to be very near (just right of), but not the same as the flake system referred named "This Is Only A Test." (11a, S D Hersey, K. Ainsworth 1987), which I believe I have done as well. The description is vague however.

Protection

The protection is sparse, up to a 3.5" cam, with heavy small gear, I suspect. I have only TR'd this route though, and doubt that I would lead it soon.

Photos

Chance of Rain - 5.10b/c sClimb up the slab to the left of Rain and follow a poorly-protected seam up to an awkward bulge (8 or 9) past a poor fixed pin (about 10 feet to the right of the 5.9 on the first pitch of the Northwest Corner) to a good stance. Reach left and place pro in the NW corner, then make a funky traverse right (10) to the stance above the roof on rain. Clip another manky fixed pin in a small left facing corner and then climb up and slightly left to a downward pointing flake. Fire in as many TCUs as you can and then climb strait up past a jug and tricky face moves (crux) to another downward-pointing flake. From here, step right and follow rain up to the anchor (5.8 or so).

I would recommend leading this on double ropes and bring double sets of cams up to a #1.5 Friend. A #3 or 3.5 Friend can be placed in the flake past the crux, but it's not that hard going past it and more gear is available. This is a pretty cool route but is a little contrived as one could easily bail onto the NW Corner or Rain. It's a little runout but the cruxes can be bouldered out from good stances with classic Eldo pro (it's there, but you don't want to fall onto it!). Jun 22, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
PS- I recently received this note: "...this route is "a chance of rain" and is in rossiter's (newest) guide book. the pins that were in it are long gone. 'this is only a test' is the vague, hold-less and gear-less scoop like water runnel left of chance of rain and right of north west corner(another bold derek route). I was present for the first acsents of both routes." -steve sangdahl

So, the pins are now gone folks, which may contribute to the difficulty in locating/defining this route. Feb 11, 2002