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Out to Lunge Variation
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in The Bastille - W Face
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Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blind Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Breakfast in Bed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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In Plain Sight T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Out to Lunge Variation T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 41 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9304, -105.283 |
| FA: | Jim Erickson & student (1978) |
| Page Views: | 651 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Kristoffer Schmarr on Oct 19, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The original line: climb the right-facing dihedral on the left edge of the short slab to the roof, traverse right 10', and bust up through the 'v' in the roof. The description I found said to pull through the roof "via a desperate reach". Either Mr. Erickson is 8' tall or whatever he was reaching is now gone and the original grade of .11a is a laughable sandbag. There's now a pretty amazing bouldery sequence (at least V4 as I did it) that will deposit you on a ledge just below the true summit of the Bastille.
The direct variation: the slab can be ascended quite directly to the thin crack in the roof where the boulder awaits. This doesn't add to the grade but would add substantially to the seriousness of the route as the ~25' slab is unprotectable. Maybe a highball pad would save you. It's also 10x cooler climbing than the 5.6 dihedral on thin, techy Eldo slab (.10b?). The slab logically splits into 3 sections. I worked slightly to the right in the second section.
Descent: scramble off to the North carefully. Low 5th class downclimbing is required.
Protection
A standard rack to 2". An anchor can be set on a tree about 10'-15' back from the edge - be smart about how you extend your anchor to reduce rock and rope wear.
A TR can be set up by scrambling around the left side of the wall and finding the tree (better option than some creative gear in fragile rock).
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