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Routes in The Bastille - W Face

Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakfast in Bed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 270 ft, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Layton Kor?
Page Views: 5,858 total · 31/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Jun 13, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The route begins immediately right of Hair City, following the crack system seen in the photo below. The first pitch is great and I'm surprised it hasn't been added to the site.

P1- Climb the very thin crack (11a- one move) to a good ledge. One can avoid the thin crack by starting in from the right and traversing left to the ledge above the thin crack. Climb the crack and flake system past two pitons (the first of which is badly bent) to a bulge. Clip the pin above the bulge and make a funky face move out left, then move back right into the crack system (10a/b). Climb up and left, joining Hair City for the remainder of the pitch. Belay from the bolts at the top of the huge pillar.

Either rap from here or continue with one of three options: P3 of West Buttress (5.7), P2 of Hair City (5.9), or the actual continuation of the West Face:

P2- Climb the corner/roof up and right of the belay (5.8). Continue upwards (easy 5th) to the top of the Bastille.

Protection

Nuts, including RPs. Set of cams up to #2 Camalot.
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
  5.11
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
  5.11
Updated the "beta photo". Reading the description and comments here, I was pretty confused about the variations when I went to lead this a few days ago.

"The 5.10 section", "the 5.11 start", "the 5.10a bulge", "getting on the slab (5.10a/b)", "the 10c way", "the 11a/b way", "the 11b variation", "direct start via thin crack (5.10c/d)", "the 11b straight up variation", "the 10a/b bulge"....

After getting on it:

-Direct start: just right of the start to Hair City, climb the thin crack straight up from the lowest point just right of Hair City. (I found this solid 5.10-5.10+. Levin calls it 5.11a.) There was a fixed nut on this crack.

-Indirect start begins further right and traverses left onto the ledge above the direct start crack. (Silly, I think, the direct is totally worthwhile).

-Then climb cracks to the bulge. Decision time:

-Keep right through the bulge at 5.11a (or b or whatever)

-Or step left 5.10a (or b or whatever). Here you can go left right away to a bolt to bail onto Hair City or back right to continue up West Face.

There is good pro up to that decision point, then hard to place through the crux, but there are a couple very good placements. Also a pretty clean fall if needed (I did).

There is a lot of climbing in this short bit via the direct start through the bulge!

Edit July 2016, worked on the direct variation staying in the crack today, not moving left... kind of a greasy feeling day on all routes today. Felt 5.11b in my book. Jun 17, 2015
Climbed the first pitch today. After the 10a/b bulge, I stayed climber's right and found fairly easy climbing with descent gear. Set up a below behind the big pillar next to a fixed pin. Since we didn't find any bolts, we left a nut to back up the pin and rapped from there to the ground. Oct 20, 2014
Dick Stone
Boulder
Dick Stone   Boulder
Awesome route that is entertaining the whole way. That bent over pin at the bulge crux is suspect as it's probably had multiple whippers on it and is deserving of being backed up. The 11b straight up variation exceeded my leading mojo, but moving left was way fun. Aug 9, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11a
West Face Double Direct, 5.11a PG.

Take direct start via thin crack (5.10c/d) to a stance. Climb dual cracks to the bulge (pin, small gear) and instead of stepping left, continue up and slightly right. Another crux is encountered at the pin which can be backed up with a 1" cam. Great moves on good holds. Continue 25 more feet to a stance.

I didn't find a bolted anchor where Levin indicates. I didn't continue up so was forced to rap off two stoppers. They are yours, or leave them for others. Excellent route! Sep 22, 2012
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
Why so little mention of the 11b variation? It's very fun: exposed, and a bit bouldery. May 15, 2009
SirVato
Boulder
 
SirVato   Boulder
 
Wow, great route but I also had a harder time with the bulge than the thin crack start.
Did the start clean even after plugging up the good finger lock with a yellow Alien but, got worked on the bulge!! I don't know if it was trying to fiddle with gear or just not wanting to commit over those bent ass pins or what but after reading these comments I for sure have to go back an redeem myself!!!

Good fun stuff though!
I friggin' love Eldo!! Jul 3, 2008
Brian Weinstein
  5.11a
Brian Weinstein  
  5.11a
I thoroughly enjoyed this route. Classic Eldo style in running 'er out on smaller gear. There is a tricky blue TCU placement from a steep stance right below a broken knifeblade that enabled me to proceed through the crux, with a little caution. Sep 2, 2007
Keith Leary
  5.11b
Keith Leary  
  5.11b
My [friends] and I have been on this pitch at least three different times. It is a great climb. The 10c way is fun, but the 11a/b way is much better. For us the moves are beta intensive. At first it felt much harder than 11, but after working (read TR) it into submision it still is very hard for us, but we can do it on TR. John did manage to get it with one hang at the crux pin. The pin has held us on [several] falls and you can back it up with a good cam a foot below. The problem is that we cannot put in any more pro until we a standing on the small sloping ledge four feet above the pin. That puts fear in me. We finish by going [straight] up above two more pins and staying just left of the chimney. I also agree that the 5.11a start is very easy for its grade. Very nice moves. Aug 11, 2005
Shane Zentner
Colorado
  5.11a
Shane Zentner   Colorado
  5.11a
I followed the West Face first pitch and struggled at the bulge. The 5.11 start was difficult, however, I had a harder time getting around the 5.10a bulge, getting onto the slab (5.10a/b), then moving right. Good, balancy moves over good air made this pitch exciting. Jul 5, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a PG13
I did it on Saturday with my girlfriend, who is short, small fingered, and very strong (X-gymnast). Here's what it boils down to- I though it was incredibly easy at the grade, she thought it was very hard (she has done other 11's). We dissected what occurred when we returned to the base. As usual, it's all about sequence- one move ...if you get it right. Not to sandbag or downplay that Steve can climb circles around me, but I don't think the edges are marginal at all- if your feet are in the right place (not the big holds) then the hands you use are all pretty positive, and I did it in the direct sun in the afternoon. Then I went and felt desperate on Supremacy Crack... Jun 30, 2003
It's possible to avoid crossing over to Hair City by staying right above the last pin at the 5.10 section and climbing up to the chimney on the right side of the giant flake (5.7s). I did not see the bolt Rossiter shows in his topo for this secton but the climbing is pretty straight forward. Both pitches are quite good, I'm not sure why it doesn't see more traffic... Jul 25, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
For once, an 11a in Eldo that felt soft for the grade. Perhaps shorter stature and slenderer fingers might have been an advantage.... Jun 16, 2002