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Out to Lunge ... with Dessert
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.6 from 5
votes
Routes in The Bastille - W Face
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Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blind Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Breakfast in Bed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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In Plain Sight T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Out to Lunge Variation T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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West Face Directissma T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,797 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Patrik on Sep 4, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures
Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
As the name implies, this is a short variation of Out To Lunge, with a sweet finish ...
Follow the first pitch of Out To Lunge to the triangular roof. Start the leftward traverse under the roof, but after a few feet, pull through the roof on big holds diagonaling up and right. There's a decent stance after pulling the roof, and you can either go straight up on big holds or continue traversing right for a few more feet (more relaxed) before heading up. Continue up a short slab, pull over a bulge, and then climb onwards to the walkoff ledge. If the gear is a bit puzzling at the roof crux, you could complete the leftward traverse, place gear, and then come back to pull the roof (highly recommended). Older guidebooks mention a pin at the left end of the roof, but this disappeared before 2012.
With shorter wingspan, the rating could be a bit harder, maybe 5.10a-.
Protection
Bring the same as for Out To Lunge. If you have a cam of size in between BD #2 and #3 (or equivalent size tricam, which I believe is the orange tricam #5), it might fit in one of the pockets at the roof. A BD #3 just barely does not fit and a #2 fully umbrellas inside the pocket.
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