Avg: 2.6 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|Page Views:||1,797 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Patrik on Sep 4, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
As the name implies, this is a short variation of Out To Lunge, with a sweet finish ...
Follow the first pitch of Out To Lunge to the triangular roof. Start the leftward traverse under the roof, but after a few feet, pull through the roof on big holds diagonaling up and right. There's a decent stance after pulling the roof, and you can either go straight up on big holds or continue traversing right for a few more feet (more relaxed) before heading up. Continue up a short slab, pull over a bulge, and then climb onwards to the walkoff ledge. If the gear is a bit puzzling at the roof crux, you could complete the leftward traverse, place gear, and then come back to pull the roof (highly recommended). Older guidebooks mention a pin at the left end of the roof, but this disappeared before 2012.
With shorter wingspan, the rating could be a bit harder, maybe 5.10a-.
Bring the same as for Out To Lunge. If you have a cam of size in between BD #2 and #3 (or equivalent size tricam, which I believe is the orange tricam #5), it might fit in one of the pockets at the roof. A BD #3 just barely does not fit and a #2 fully umbrellas inside the pocket.