Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Duncan Ferguson
Page Views: 6,660 total · 30/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

139 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


A steep, exposed route that is a good alternative if Hair City and the West Buttress are occupied, or a good route just to do. Hike up the West Face of the Bastille, past a large block to where the face first makes a sharp jog inward, forming a pocketed arete.

P1-Climb the arete, with tricky protection at first, then belay or climb a chimney to a large ledge with bolts.

P2-Choose from 3 alternatives above the belay: the West Face, a 5.8 crack to the right (with a rotten start); Hair City, which tackles the steepest part of the overhang at 5.9, directly above; or the West Buttress to the left, which climbs a shallow chimney over the left side of the overhang. All 3 reach another ledge, where one may belay or continue easily to the top of the Bastille.


Standard rack.
The first pitch has a few steep and stylin' moves. Even the second pitch is not too bad. However, be carefull of a few fragile features under the roof at the first belay. The last time I did this route, a party above nearly beaned me in the head with a football-sized rock! Never the less, this route is worth doing. Jan 29, 2002
Good stuff. The first 30 feet or so has the crux and only takes a small wire and alien or similar for pro, and it is SLIPPERY. Once you are through the slippery stuff, the climbing is steep, juggy and really fun. Combined with the 5.7 finish to the West Buttress, it is a great outing. Sep 23, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
The 5.8 crack on the right on pitch 2 seemed to me about as hard as the middle route through the roof (pitch 2 of Hair City). Less strenuous, perhaps, but trickier and looser. Oct 7, 2002
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
Yet another finish to this route face climbs out from the belay alcove (before the chimney) to the right on good holds, but runout (5.5), to join the West Chimney route. This finish is rated 5.7 but feels more like 5.8 to me. This second pitch can be done in one long pitch. A great link-up.

Rossiter calls this 5.8+S so I was reluctant to get on it for a while. It didn't feel too runout to me; just take advantage of placement opportunities. Jun 7, 2003
Did the 1st pitch yesterday. I thought there was adequate pro if you are solid at the grade.... Aug 22, 2003
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
We did the route about a week ago. I took P2. The first pitch starts just up the trail from Hair City and immediately traverses left. You can get a very shallow small cam on the far left before you go up. P2 has you just under an overhang with a crack running up the right side. There's a doughnut hole of rock you can sling if you like, but it's fractured. A cam to the left would be better. I climbed up to inspect the thin roof crack in the back of the overhang and decided what kind of piece I wanted, stepped down to the big ledge and got it ready, and then went up the crack. Pretty exciting! The rest of the pitch is very straight forward and broken up with rest ledges. Consider doing this route if you are looking for something at the grade and the other routes on the Bastille are occupied. Much easier than "Breakfast in Bed" a few lines over. May 9, 2005
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
Very fun classic route. Steep climbing on jugs. Easy access and 3 pitches to the summit. What else can you ask for?

The cruxes have adequate pro and clear fall lines. Some of the moves are spooky and exposed but not to warrant an S IMHO.

The crux for me was about 30 feet after the start as you pull onto the arrette. My advice--just let go of the bomber undercling and trust the smaller holds above. Its over in a minute then its fun heucos to a fun chimmney. May 19, 2009
Alex Vidal
Boulder, CO
Alex Vidal   Boulder, CO
Definitely has adequate pro if you take the time to place it. Fine climbing, tainted only by its brevity. Jul 16, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
I agree that the pro is adequate. The route is fun! There really is no longer a fixed anchor at the end, but there are other ways to continue up. Aug 28, 2016
Nate Hrivnak
Nate Hrivnak   Monterey
Got a grey 0.4 BD C4 stuck just past the roof to the right on pitch two. Any good samaritan who manages to get it out, there's a pair of Zeal Optics sunglasses/goggles of your choice waiting for you. Call or text me at 248-345-8394, thanks! Jul 28, 2017