Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Bastille - W Face

Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakfast in Bed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: [Art Higbee, Jim Erickson, John Ruger, Ed Webster, 1975]
Page Views: 1,618 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 6, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The first pitch (5.10b) is mostly a matter of commitment if you are 6'0" or taller. At 5'10, the move starts getting 'big.' The gear is only so-so and requires the leader to trust some odd holds. The climbing gets easier after the big move, but the gear does not get good for a while. Rossiter said this is "unprotectable." I disagree, but will admit that the gear is a little iffy. The second pitch (5.11a) is a blast. Tape up, take 2 sets of cams and enjoy the ride.

Protection

The protection on the "rarely done" first pitch crux is a poor pink or red tricam above some nuts that are lower down. The second pitch, which is easily reached without doing the first can be protected with a few bolts and hand-sized cams.

Photos

Chris Dawson
Denver, CO
Chris Dawson   Denver, CO
After pulling the roof on the first pitch, it is very easy to move left onto Sunset Boulevard (just after the crux) and enjoy the steep huecoed climbing on that pitch. Jul 18, 2002
David A. Turner
  5.11a R
David A. Turner  
  5.11a R
2nd pitch: great pro (including a #3 1/2 Camalot), super fun, very steep. May 26, 2013
I led the first pitch recently. I was able to get a yellow Alien at the start of the roof in solid rock. I'm not sure it would keep you from hitting a ledge if you blew the crux move but at least you wouldn't be falling onto the gear in the mudstone below the roof. Jun 16, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
The "jug" on the first pitch is hard to reach if you are not tall. Once you have it, the rest of the first pitch is easier, and there is a pod to rest in right after the crux. Jun 20, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
As per the note above abut a yellow Alien in solid rock - yeah, maybe, but it just blew out on Saturday and that's changed. So don't count on that at this point. I went for the route again after running a trail race with no warm up and couldn't get my feet high. I jumped off from a few feet above that cam and ended up taking a 40' fall when it went out.

Luckily, I'd told my partner I expected that, so I had placed a few small Aliens below that and ended up 8' off of the ground.

Don't take P1 casually. Sep 12, 2016