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Routes in The Bastille - W Face

Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakfast in Bed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad
FA: Alex Shainman, Spring 2000
Page Views: 1,514 total, 8/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Aug 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

20 feet of tricky stemming and palming is the business on this obscure, yet obvious, corner on the West Face of The Bastille. Directly left of the crux of Blind Faith and right of the OW on West Chimney is a right-facing, right-leaning, short corner. Start up the wide crack of Blind Faith and solo (sparse pro) left to the bottom of the dihedral on loose rock (5.6). Stem up the corner using good body language, with good pro! Exit the top of the corner on the left and run it out to the ledge on slightly loose flakes (5.6+).

In all, 3 star moves on 20' of good rock separated by choss.... Fun nevertheless and it goes to show you can't leave any rock unturned.

This route can be led onsight by a competent climber.

  • It is quite possible that this is a line that Eric Doub top-roped in the late 70s.

Protection

Small TCUs/Aliens, sm/med wireds, #1.5 + #2 Friends.

Photos

Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
 
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
 
Did this on a TR to check it out. The crux for me involved a single digit first knuckle jam to surmount the dihedral. Interesting.

my Gear beta: BD .75, 2 x #4 stoppers, #8 stopper, and slung flake
(plus whatever gear you prefer to reach the start of the dihedral on easy but runnout terrain) Oct 15, 2007