PRINT: Rock Climb Stem Gem, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Stem Gem

5.11+, Trad,

Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: Alex Shainman, Spring 2000
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Bastille > Bastille - W Face

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

20 feet of tricky stemming and palming is the business on this obscure, yet obvious, corner on the West Face of The Bastille. Directly left of the crux of Blind Faith and right of the OW on West Chimney is a right-facing, right-leaning, short corner. Start up the wide crack of Blind Faith and solo (sparse pro) left to the bottom of the dihedral on loose rock (5.6). Stem up the corner using good body language, with good pro! Exit the top of the corner on the left and run it out to the ledge on slightly loose flakes (5.6+).

In all, 3 star moves on 20' of good rock separated by choss.... Fun nevertheless and it goes to show you can't leave any rock unturned.

This route can be led onsight by a competent climber.

It is quite possible that this is a line that Eric Doub top-roped in the late 70s.

Protection

Small TCUs/Aliens, sm/med wireds, #1.5 + #2 Friends.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

the dihedral left of the crux on Blind Faith -> Stem Gem

Stem Gem crux section

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO

Did this on a TR to check it out. The crux for me involved a single digit first knuckle jam to surmount the dihedral. Interesting.

my Gear beta: BD .75, 2 x #4 stoppers, #8 stopper, and slung flake
(plus whatever gear you prefer to reach the start of the dihedral on easy but runnout terrain) Oct 15, 2007