Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Justen Sjong, Eric Johnson
Page Views: 1,561 total · 27/month
Shared By: EDJ Johnson on May 15, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a steep route with good holds. Bring biceps!

Location

Approach via any climb that gains the Upper Ramp, and locate the large cave at the top of the Upper Ramp "meadow". This is the obvious bolt line to the left of Exhibit A with the first one being well off the deck on an easy slab.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor over the lip.

Photos

EDJ Johnson
Eldorado Springs, Colorado
  5.12b
EDJ Johnson   Eldorado Springs, Colorado
  5.12b
Thanks to A.C.E. and the state park for the hardware and otherwise facilitating the new route process. Have fun! May 15, 2014
Stefan Griebel
Boulder, Colorado
  5.12+
Stefan Griebel   Boulder, Colorado
  5.12+
That big block just hanging up there between bolts 1 and 2 is freaking scary! Does it move/flex, or was it just my psyche going nuts when I was hanging upside-down on it?!

Maybe I just need more time to figure out the beta, but even relative to other Eldo 12b's (e.g. Scary Canary, Hairstyles, Song of the Dodo), this felt much harder. Perhaps even harder than Your Mother. I honestly would not be surprised to see it get a 13-. Jun 2, 2014
Aaron Ramras
  5.12
Aaron Ramras  
  5.12
5.12 seemed about right to me; however, I agree with Stefan...the block took all the fun out of this one for me personally...yikes. Sep 18, 2017