Avg: 3.2 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft (33 m)|
|Page Views:||3,940 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Apr 19, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
I am interested in the history of this line and on what others think the grade/runout of it is like.
To climb a 5.8 variation of lower Ruper or lower Grand Giraffe, start as for Ruper and climb up the thin crack for 15 feet. At this point, a small tree is to your left (with slings) and the route goes right. Rather than going right, the route stays left. You keep going straight up, staying near the arete and climbing up to a point below the left-leaning, thin-crack section of Grand Giraffe. Staying lower and left of that section both avoids drag and to covers new ground and unique ground. After perhaps 30-35 meters, you reach the ledge from which you can left to climb the easy, wide pitch of Grand Giraffe to reach the belay below the OW on Grand Giraffe. This can be done in under 60 meters if you don't wander your rope around too much with gear. Finish on Grand Giraffe, Electric Aunt Jemima, or Art's Spar.