Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,940 total · 17/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 19, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

I am listing this separately in the hopes of attaining more info, and because this route shares only the first 15 feet of climbing with Ruper, and from it, one can not get back to the the Ruper line. A line was in Rossiter's old book, Boulder Climbs South and is no longer present. Andy Donson suggested this line to me as an alternative to lower Grand Giraffe when we arrived at the same time and place.

I am interested in the history of this line and on what others think the grade/runout of it is like.

To climb a 5.8 variation of lower Ruper or lower Grand Giraffe, start as for Ruper and climb up the thin crack for 15 feet. At this point, a small tree is to your left (with slings) and the route goes right. Rather than going right, the route stays left. You keep going straight up, staying near the arete and climbing up to a point below the left-leaning, thin-crack section of Grand Giraffe. Staying lower and left of that section both avoids drag and to covers new ground and unique ground. After perhaps 30-35 meters, you reach the ledge from which you can left to climb the easy, wide pitch of Grand Giraffe to reach the belay below the OW on Grand Giraffe. This can be done in under 60 meters if you don't wander your rope around too much with gear. Finish on Grand Giraffe, Electric Aunt Jemima, or Art's Spar.

Protection

A normal Eldo rack including a good selection of stoppers & cams. There are short runouts above reasonable gear, but is on par for Eldo at this grade.

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