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To RP Or Not To Be
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British X
Avg: 4 from 5
votes
Routes in Redgarden - Tower One
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Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Art's Spar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Better Layton Never S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Consummation Nite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Disclosure (new name) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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E.L. 200 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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E.L.100 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Eleven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R |
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Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Magic Route T C2+ |
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Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Parting Shot T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Psychosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rocky Raccoon T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Rover T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Derek Hersey |
| Page Views: | 6,872 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Jul 11, 2003 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is Derek's Eldo masterpiece left of the third pitch of the Doub/Griffith. There has always been some confusion as to where the pitch goes due to the to licheny nature of the face, but once you figure out where it is, you can't miss it.
We climbed Superslab to the belay below the crux pitch and, clipping the bolt up on Superslab as a directional, lowered straight down the pitch (80 feet) to an obvious starting foothold just left of the arete. For reference, this pitch (and foothold) is reached by traversing around the corner about 20 below the two bolts and the pin that protect the 11a crux on the third pitch of the Doub-Griffith.
Hand traverse left on a pocket band from the foothold (juts out of a purple break, the third striation on the wall when seen from a distance), slotting in a sideways nut. Hard moves take you up and left to a small stance (sling a horn out left). Move straight up the very obtuse corner system (more of a bowl) on small, positive edges, slotting RPs as you go, and climbing generally about 10 feet left of the Doub-Griffith arete. A couple of the RPs seemed pretty good, others were just body weight. Expect long runouts.
Tim Kemple and I (Pinklebear) did this pitch in headpoint style (toprope rehearsal, gear placed on lead): it was the only way I, as a tourist in Derek's world, would get to experience this incredible route. So while we didn't match or better the first-ascent style (Derek pre-inspected the pitch on rappel, then led it), we did get a bit of chalk on the holds. Whether you choose to ground-up lead this route, pre-inspect it, or toprope it, you won't be disappointed. This is one of the best vertical face climbs in Eldo.
We climbed Superslab to the belay below the crux pitch and, clipping the bolt up on Superslab as a directional, lowered straight down the pitch (80 feet) to an obvious starting foothold just left of the arete. For reference, this pitch (and foothold) is reached by traversing around the corner about 20 below the two bolts and the pin that protect the 11a crux on the third pitch of the Doub-Griffith.
Hand traverse left on a pocket band from the foothold (juts out of a purple break, the third striation on the wall when seen from a distance), slotting in a sideways nut. Hard moves take you up and left to a small stance (sling a horn out left). Move straight up the very obtuse corner system (more of a bowl) on small, positive edges, slotting RPs as you go, and climbing generally about 10 feet left of the Doub-Griffith arete. A couple of the RPs seemed pretty good, others were just body weight. Expect long runouts.
Tim Kemple and I (Pinklebear) did this pitch in headpoint style (toprope rehearsal, gear placed on lead): it was the only way I, as a tourist in Derek's world, would get to experience this incredible route. So while we didn't match or better the first-ascent style (Derek pre-inspected the pitch on rappel, then led it), we did get a bit of chalk on the holds. Whether you choose to ground-up lead this route, pre-inspect it, or toprope it, you won't be disappointed. This is one of the best vertical face climbs in Eldo.
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