Avg: 4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||5,479 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||Anonymous Coward on Jul 11, 2003 with 1 Suggestions|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
We climbed Superslab to the belay below the crux pitch and, clipping the bolt up on Superslab as a directional, lowered straight down the pitch (80 feet) to an obvious starting foothold just left of the arete. For reference, this pitch (and foothold) is reached by traversing around the corner about 20 below the two bolts and the pin that protect the 11a crux on the third pitch of the Doub-Griffith.
Hand traverse left on a pocket band from the foothold (juts out of a purple break, the third striation on the wall when seen from a distance), slotting in a sideways nut. Hard moves take you up and left to a small stance (sling a horn out left). Move straight up the very obtuse corner system (more of a bowl) on small, positive edges, slotting RPs as you go, and climbing generally about 10 feet left of the Doub-Griffith arete. A couple of the RPs seemed pretty good, others were just body weight. Expect long runouts.
Tim Kemple and I (Pinklebear) did this pitch in headpoint style (toprope rehearsal, gear placed on lead): it was the only way I, as a tourist in Derek's world, would get to experience this incredible route. So while we didn't match or better the first-ascent style (Derek pre-inspected the pitch on rappel, then led it), we did get a bit of chalk on the holds. Whether you choose to ground-up lead this route, pre-inspect it, or toprope it, you won't be disappointed. This is one of the best vertical face climbs in Eldo.