Routes in Redgarden - Tower One
Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c | |
Art's Spar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Better Layton Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R | |
Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Consummation Nite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
E.L.100 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Electric Aunt Jemima T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R | |
Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R | |
Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Magic Route T C2+ | |
Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X | |
Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R | |
One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Parting Shot T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Psychosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Rocky Raccoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Rover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R | |
Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R | |
South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R | |
Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R | |
To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X | |
Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X | |
Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 | |
Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
FA: | L. Kor, Rick Horn 1961. FFA: Pat Ament, Richard Smith, Tom R |
Page Views: | 2,927 total, 14/month |
Shared By: | Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Seasonal Closures
Details
Seasonal Closures (3/22/17, effective immediately)
Shirttail Peak is closed to all activities, including rock climbing, due to Golden Eagles nesting in the area. Trespassing constitutes a federal offense and violators will be cited. Eagles are sensitive to disturbance caused by human presence and may abandon their nest and young as a result.
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
From the BCC email: Millenium Crag is closed.
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Shirttail Peak is closed to all activities, including rock climbing, due to Golden Eagles nesting in the area. Trespassing constitutes a federal offense and violators will be cited. Eagles are sensitive to disturbance caused by human presence and may abandon their nest and young as a result.
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
From the BCC email: Millenium Crag is closed.
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is a combination of the first two pitches of Super Slab, and the second two of Art's Spar. The first pitch is a .10c undercling flake with decent holds, yet still pumpy climbing. Above the pitch traverses left along a line of pins over nebulous terrain. The second and third pitches can be combined with a two hundred foot rope to a belay at the base of a famous offwidth called Grand Giraffe. The last pitch is the crux, it is rated .10c in most guidebooks, but it is possibly a full grade harder now. A local climber informed me a hold has broken in the crack that now makes the move much harder than .10c. The line is obvious, jam out a completely horizontal 6' roof. This is a very intimidating and exposed crux. The hardest part is making a long move to the lip will completely horizontal. This section really surprised me (it spit me off), make no mistake it is solid 5.11, I thought it was a full grade harder than Tagger (.10c) which is a similar climb. There is an easier option to the left called Electric Aunt Jemima that goes at .10c, although the pro looks a little friable (#0 TCUs?). The roof on Super Spar is well protected at least.10 Comments
Thanks for the comment
Slow down, you've reached your posting limit
Fort Collins, CO
Fort Collins, CO
I know some of you ex-Gunks climbers now living in the Boulder area are misty-eyed now, thinking back to those great days in the Gunks. Mar 21, 2004
Fort Collins, CO
Tucson, AZ
Tucson, AZ