Type: Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: Derek Hersey, Janet Robinson, 1988
Page Views: 2,023 total · 14/month
Shared By: Scott Bennett on Jan 11, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a fun and adventurous outing on the West face of Redgarden Wall. I'd give it three stars for the great movement and continuous climbing, but it loses one star for a few patches of sketchy rock.

Begin as for the direct start to Yellow Spur, and trend up and left past three bolts (the middle one is hanger-less, but has decent gear close by). After the burly, rather steep start, you'll be relieved to enter the slot/dihedral up high.

It stays hard, though, as you encounter tricky moves, sparse pro, and suspect rock. There's definitely a few good looking pieces in here, but due to sketchy rock, none are unquestionably bomber.

Bust left at the top of the slot and end this pitch at the 2 bolt belay shared with Ignition.

Straight above the belay, burl your way up the steep crack, and past a juggy roof. Continue up the face with good pro, eventually trending left to join a short, left-facing corner that leads to a small roof. Pull the final roof and scamper up a slabby corner to belay on a big ledge.

The entire route is about 190', so it could theoretically be linked into one pitch, but I think the drag would be a deal-breaker. For a full value pitch, try linking "Ignition" into the second pitch of "Power". Since Ignition is more direct, the drag was not bad.

Descent: Walk north (climber's left) on the ledge. You can rap off a big tree here, which would likely get you to the 3-bolt anchor on Apple Strudel (I haven't done this, the pull off the tree looked bad). Another option is to continue north on the ledge to the West Chimney bolted rappels (two raps to the ground).

Location

It is between Ignition and the Direct Start to Yellow Spur, on the West face of Redgarden Wall.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack to 2 or 3 inches.

The only sketchy part was the top half of pitch one, where there's a few different "OK" pieces protecting tricky, insecure climbing.

Photos

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