Avg: 2.6 from 9 votes
Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches
|FA:||Derek Hersey, Janet Robinson, 1988|
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|Shared By:||Scott Bennett on Jan 11, 2010|
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Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Begin as for the direct start to Yellow Spur, and trend up and left past three bolts (the middle one is hanger-less, but has decent gear close by). After the burly, rather steep start, you'll be relieved to enter the slot/dihedral up high.
It stays hard, though, as you encounter tricky moves, sparse pro, and suspect rock. There's definitely a few good looking pieces in here, but due to sketchy rock, none are unquestionably bomber.
Bust left at the top of the slot and end this pitch at the 2 bolt belay shared with Ignition.
Straight above the belay, burl your way up the steep crack, and past a juggy roof. Continue up the face with good pro, eventually trending left to join a short, left-facing corner that leads to a small roof. Pull the final roof and scamper up a slabby corner to belay on a big ledge.
The entire route is about 190', so it could theoretically be linked into one pitch, but I think the drag would be a deal-breaker. For a full value pitch, try linking "Ignition" into the second pitch of "Power". Since Ignition is more direct, the drag was not bad.
Descent: Walk north (climber's left) on the ledge. You can rap off a big tree here, which would likely get you to the 3-bolt anchor on Apple Strudel (I haven't done this, the pull off the tree looked bad). Another option is to continue north on the ledge to the West Chimney bolted rappels (two raps to the ground).