Avg: 2.5 from 10 votes
Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches
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Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more info visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Begin as for the direct start to Yellow Spur, and trend up and left past three bolts (the middle one is hanger-less, but has decent gear close by). After the burly, rather steep start, you'll be relieved to enter the slot/dihedral up high.
It stays hard, though, as you encounter tricky moves, sparse pro, and suspect rock. There's definitely a few good looking pieces in here, but due to sketchy rock, none are unquestionably bomber.
Bust left at the top of the slot and end this pitch at the 2 bolt belay shared with Ignition.
Straight above the belay, burl your way up the steep crack, and past a juggy roof. Continue up the face with good pro, eventually trending left to join a short, left-facing corner that leads to a small roof. Pull the final roof and scamper up a slabby corner to belay on a big ledge.
The entire route is about 190', so it could theoretically be linked into one pitch, but I think the drag would be a deal-breaker. For a full value pitch, try linking "Ignition" into the second pitch of "Power". Since Ignition is more direct, the drag was not bad.
Descent: Walk north (climber's left) on the ledge. You can rap off a big tree here, which would likely get you to the 3-bolt anchor on Apple Strudel (I haven't done this, the pull off the tree looked bad). Another option is to continue north on the ledge to the West Chimney bolted rappels (two raps to the ground).